News and Training
Posted: March 27, 2021
We recently spoke to Michael Adams (MA) and Samuel Lee (SL) to see what life’s like with a Mini MoonBoard. Here’s what they had to say!
A video series by Moon athlete Eliot Stephens. Featuring tips for building, setting and training on a home board. As well as tips for hard climbing outside, how to approach projecting, how to flash hard climbs and much more!
Posted: March 17, 2021Categories: Climbing
As 2021 begins, what better time to talk about sending your ‘project’ than now. Some of us will be heading back to our home walls for another round of lockdown training. While some of us, especially those who are lucky enough to live in an area close to real rock, might be just enjoying another typical climbing day. ‘Projects’ are everywhere. Both inside the gym or outside on the rock. Either way, the points that follow hopefully will help you on your own personal stone crusade. Most of them are common knowledge, but often overlooked in the plethora of training advice that gets repeated time and time again. So, let’s begin.
Posted: December 05, 2020Categories: Bouldering Diary
by Martin Keller
It all started way back on a cold day in November 2004 when I had been able to send the second part of the line for my second 8A-boulder. The first part of the line (Unendliche Geschichte 2, 8A+) with its crazy river polished slopers always puzzled me. The friction was so poor that I had not been able to really pull on those holds and constantly dryfired off somewhere.
The gamechanger was a session in 2007 when the holds got fully condensed while a thunderstorm passed by. The friction was suddenly amazing! It turned out that these polished holds had way better friction when they were totally humid! That was it! A few thunderstorms later and I had climbed the first part as well. Instantly I started to try to link the two parts. But the first move of the second part kept throwing me off on link. I did go back every year since, and came close many times but somehow never managed to stick that move. I really needed good friction (humid and warm) but eventually the weather always turned “too good” and/or I had been sidetracked with other projects.
This spring things were different though! Despite approaching my 43rd birthday I was clearly in the best shape of my life and “suddenly” I had been able to send several hard multi-year-nemesis-projects of mine like Riot Act, low, 8C-ish in the Frankenjura , Ill Trill 8B+ and New Baseline, 8B+ in Magic Wood. So when warm and wet conditions arrived late this spring, I was super interested to see how that shape would change my “Never Ending Story”. I immediately could feel that everything went way smoother and after a few sessions I finally did stick that nemesis-move on link! That I slipped on the last move to the top was a real pity – but I just had been super happy to have done that move that had shut me down for the last 13 years.
With the current state of affairs throughout the world, many of you have decided to take the plunge and build your own MoonBoard. I had the same thoughts back in 2012 when I built my own, minus the pandemic of course. So suffice to say I’ve picked up some first hand knowledge about the world of MoonBoarding over the last 8 years. Hopefully I can pass some of this on to you so you can avoid some of the mistakes I made when I was first starting out.