Posted: May 06, 2022Categories: Training
My first fingerboard was a Metolius Simulator; a big, heavy hunk of resin above my bedroom door. Actually, looking back, it wasn’t too bad. The edges had a reasonable radius, making them comfortable on the skin, and the jugs were comfy for warming up and pull-ups. My second was a Bleaustone board that hung on a beam above my bed at University; more thought had gone into the carving of this. Holds had different amounts of in-cut to force certain grip positions and there was a greater variety of holds but it was still a big, heavy hunk of resin.
Moon Climbing athlete Martin Keller had a stellar chat with Steven Dimmitt over on the Nugget podcast. If you don't have time for the wisdom-filled 2 hours 46 minutes, we picked our favourite nugget of wisdom from Martin on how to train when you're struggling with motivation. Here's what Martin said:
1. Make it as easy as possible to train
A long drive in traffic isn’t going to get you psyched to train after a long day’s work. Can you go to a closer gym? Or end your day closer to where you plan to train?
2. Don’t go home before a training session
Home is a place to relax and your brain needs to be alert and active in order to have a productive training session. You’Il feel less like training at home so if you can avoid it, go straight to training after work.
3. Listen to music or play a video game
Even if you can’t avoid home, listening to the right psyche-inducing music or playing a video game can get the adrenalin pumping and bring you into the right mindset to train.
4. Get some food into the system
Preferably something with sugar, to trigger that all important dopamine release.
5. Work stress isn’t always a bad thing
Work stress can support you with the energy you need to train. Taking (a bit) of work stress to your session can help with motivation to train.
If you want to hear more from Martin about spending 150+ days projecting his FA of ‘Ninja Skills Sit’ V15/16, how to change our brain chemistry, how Martin trains on his outdoor projects, and how changing his mindset unlocked his hardest climbs, listen to the full podcast below.
We recently spoke to the Moonboard legend Hoseok Lee about his training, climbing on the Moonboard and dream boulders. You might have seen his outrageous training feats and hard climbing on Instagram, so be prepared for more psych. Rea on to check out what he had to say!
The walls are currently back open, current guidelines are in place and climbers can finally get back to pulling on plastic. It’s been a while since we have been able to climb inside and you may or may not have kept up training at home. If you have been to a climbing wall again, you may have experienced some of the following after your session, depending on how much training you have kept up over lockdown. If you can relate to the following symptoms of returning to climbing, here is how you can help fix them! Attached below is also a video of the methods discussed.
A video series by Moon athlete Eliot Stephens. Featuring tips for building, setting and training on a home board. As well as tips for hard climbing outside, how to approach projecting, how to flash hard climbs and much more!