moonclimbing

  1. Kalymnos "Inshallah" 8c+

    blog1 Since 2008 when I  first saw this route  I really  wanted to climb it because the moves and the line itself looked amazing. So I started slowly  trying  it and figuring out the moves. The line starts from the beginning with hard boulder continues onto the roof with pockets and crimps and then all the way to the top on the roof  using pockets, crimps and small tufas without any good rest, finishing with the crux at the end. I realized while trying that it was well above my limit because I did all the moves at my limit and the line is a classic power endurance climb. After a couple of months my first kid came in the world  then we had the second child and everything went at second priority, no more tries on it, no more time for climbing (the parents can understand ;) ) One other thing was that my belayer was no longer available and there were no local climbers on the island. In the meantime I built a small climbing gym in Kalymnos mostly for the local people to start climbing and also it  was good for me to train a couple hours per day. Since 2011  I focused more on bouldering and indoor training, I spent a lot of hours on training ,and after  a few years  a lot of friends  thought that I will never go back on rope climbing. blog 3 Time passed and my kids have grown, some locals started climbing, so it was a perfect time for me to go back on rope climbing and spend 6-8 hours per day at the crags with some good friends. I started again from  where I stopped......from 'Inshallah" I started around the midle of March to try again seriously the line and it felt that my training all these years pays me off . My attempts were getting better on every try but I was a bit nervous because the heat was coming day by day. I w
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  2. Summer is here...

    ...and so are the hot temps. We've been trying to handle all that with climbing on some river bed spots where it gets a bit cooler. I only wish I had more time to go climbing but we're in the middle of the world cup season and for me it means many days spent in the gym or going from one comp to another. We're just back from Toronto and Vail where we had some time in between the two comps and we went to the beautiful RMNP. I remember the last time I was in Colorado it was raining all the time and this time it was just blue sky. Amazing. Now we're back home and I did some routesetting and coaching for the team trainings and I went out bouldering a few times with Gasper and our french bulldog Mr. Truffe. I did a few FA's which is really cool but I must admit that usually the guys do all the hard work with brushing and searching and all that. Establishing new boulders or area's takes a lots of time and dedication but it is also the best feeling climbing something that's never been done before. Now it looks like a few rainy days are ahead of us. We'll see what the rest of the summer will bring. Here are two photos by Gasper Bratina from Hydroponics, FA in Hubelj:

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  3. Fontainebleau with Slovenia Climbing Team

    I almost forgot how good Font really is. It's been too long. This trip was all about our team preparing for the next season. I went there as a coach and I wanted to climb along with our strong guys and girls but unfortunately I got sick. The weather was perfect for all 8 days (I still can't believe it) and I enjoyed climbing some easier stuff and I got to see some new areas that I've never been to before. It was not my time to climb anyway and it was cool to see our team crushing day after day. I'm planning to go back this fall, for a bit longer than a week. It's truly the best place in the world (if it doesn't rain).  Here are a few moments when I felt a bit better and I tried to climb :) Rocher Gréau, beautiful area   imageTrying Double Axel in Rocher du Cassepot   imagePerfect slopers in Franchard Cuisiniere

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  4. Summer report

    This was one busy summer for me. I spent most of my days in our gym with the team preparing for the comps, route setting and then going from one world cup to another. The highlight was, of course, world championships in Munich. In my competition years there was also a world championships in 2005and If I look back now, it's so funny how things change. Bouldering was still pretty new to me at that time but I was very ambitious and I was ready to work hard to achieve my goals as a competitor. Now I'm looking at the comps from a different perspective - as a coach and I'm very happy to have a chance to work with such a cool team. Although I missed some time for my climbing this summer, all the work and ups and downs of the season payed off with Jernej Kruder taking a silver medal in Munich. It was a big and well deserved medal for him and for our team!

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  5. First Ascent of "NIKE, 8B+", Brione, Switzerland

    And another one of the multiyear-projects down - it was one of the oldest undone projects left in Brione - happy times - could get used to that :) First Ascent of "NIKE, 8B+", Brione, Switzerland. Pic by angelawagner.ch There was a lot of rain lately and many of the visiting "cracks" escaped Swizzy or went to Mellobloco. But then weather in Swizzy is pretty unpredictable. Out of the nowhere we got a short window of crazy foen-wind that dried everything in a few hours and pleased the climbers with some of the best conditions ever!!!

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