Posted: February 02, 2015
[caption id="attachment_17443" align="aligncenter" width="980"] Insantiy of Grandeur, 8C - Chironico. Pic by angelawagner.ch[/caption] Already back in 2004 I was sitting underneath this big boulder in the 101-area at Chironico. I wanted to try the newly established problems "Einfisch" and "Delusion" but unintendedly tried them from a lower (and much harder) start. I could not do one move from that lower start but also was unable to climb more then a few moves from the existing problems. But from the very moment I was hooked up by the features and the lines on that impressive boulder, it looked just too good not to be climbed. [caption id="attachment_17447" align="aligncenter" width="980"] Insantiy of Grandeur, 8C - Chironico. Pic by angelawagner.ch[/caption] In 2009 I was back and managed to send "Einfisch" - and started to have a look at that low-start again. It took a while. After a lot of puzzle-solving and many falls from the very last moves I manged to establish "Der mit dem Fels tanzt, 8C" in late spring 2012. Right after this ascent I had a look a the logical other line to this funky and powerful lowstart. Trying to exit straight over "Delusion". I made good use of my form and was getting close but injured myself pretty bad on another project. Meanwhile visiting strongman Dai Koyamda did the first asent of the line and called it "Insanity of Grandeur, 8C". After one year of rehab I was back and getting close again but then winter hit and it was just too cold. Next spring I managed to fall twice a day two moves from
Posted: March 16, 2013
Just after Christmas Holiday, I focused my "climbing time" on bouldering because the temperatures were too cold for sport climbing. I decided to visit some good bouldering spots with my brother and some friends.
The first place we visited was Donnas, in Aosta Valley where we and a lot of people are discovering and brushing lots of good new problems. I had two boulders in my mind Klettermachine 8a and Mucca Pazza 7c+. I started trying Klettermachine because I did the "Stand start" in fact I had to link just the first one move to complete the full boulder. After 30 minutes of work I climbed all the moves and I was super satisfated! Klettermachine is done, It's Mucca pazza time! :D
I had some problems understanding the moves of Mucca pazza, because it's really powerfull boulder composed of five moves on bad slopers and funny toe/hell hooks, COMPLETLY MY ANTI-STYLE! I needed two days of hard work to figure out all the moves and then I Crushed it and I was so PSYCHED!
The week after Mucca Pazza I tried, in my opinion one of the best line in Donnas opened by Alberto Gnerro, unfortunately it has not the name but grade is around 7b/b+ for me!
-The second Spot was Varazze in Liguria, where all the boulders were opened by Chistian Core In that day, I climbed three "Magic" boulders:
-Want you bad 7c+ composed of three physical and beautifull moves on slopers.
-Il tempo delle favole 7b(Flash)
-Toccami e cado 7b+
Posted: May 22, 2012
Posted: April 19, 2012Categories: Videos
Hope you enjoy! For the story check: this moonblog-post No Mystery (low), Chironico. 7A+/8B+. FA after broken hold. from Moon Climbing on Vimeo.