ticino

  1. Changes - Asking the right questions by Eliot Stephens

    Changes - Asking the right questions by Eliot Stephens

    One of the interesting things about being able to return to bouldering areas year on year, is the ability to see change. Change in the climbing environment. Change in the boulders. Change in the community, and of course change in yourself. For me, seeing the changes in myself, and the climbing areas often provide the most reflective moments of any trip. Ultimately this is what keeps me coming back to climbing for more.

    From a performance standpoint, returning to boulders you have tried through the years and not done is always a chance to learn. It can be a satisfying moment, seeing a move which was once simply too hard, brought into possibility in a matter of moments. This realisation is without doubt one of my favourite aspects of climbing. It’s also a feeling which is only given with hard work, and an attention to the detail of the move itself. Sometimes it’s a simple thing; “I need to be stronger on pinches”. Other times it’s more subtle; “my body needs to be strong in this quite specific position which only uses this tiny muscle”. But there is always something to learn. When you return to the boulder for the 5th year, and it’s still not possible, you begin to ask more questions; “is this a technical thing?”, “do I need to spend more time on this style of hold or move?”. Finding ways to improve for these problems is what keeps me going, and brings me back to these areas. The broader problem solving aspect of how to improve can be very addictive. You constantly want to know if you’ve improved, addressed weaknesses and created new strengths. Vecchio Leone in Brione was the problem that gave me this experience on this trip to Switzerland. My ability on pinches relative to my last attempts years prior is night and day, and I suppose I have the School Room's famous problem ‘Milk It’ to thank for this. Cheers Malc.

    Seeing changes in your mentality is perhaps even more satisfying than changes in physicality. Being content with spending several days on a pr

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  2. Deja Vu

    After a quick 15 hour flight from Salt Lake City-Chicago-Dublin and finally Paris, the once far away magical forest of Fontainebleau was within my grasp. I love returning to an area 10 years later for its as if I had never been, everything fresh and new but still so familiar, a bit of deja vu was clearly present. We snatched up our spiffy French car and hit the road, after sussing out our living sitiuation with a good friend the time had come to attack the precious boulders. Unfortunately the ever present moisture and dew had devoured the boulders and never seemed to evaporate. Climbing in Fontainebleau is by far one of the most technical styles of rock in the world, its also extremely temperature dependent. The conditions were completely horrible, and even the thought of projecting anything above the warmup grade was out of the question. It was fun for a day or two but after 3 weeks of the continuous let down, my mind began to go a little cuckoo. Nearing the end of our France adventure, in hopes of being in the best shape ever and ready to give the full on Utahn invasion of Great Britian, the exact opposite was at hand, too much delicious pastries, wine and cheese mixed with no climbing, made for some ruff times ahead.

    (Balance 7c+)

    With the dreams of Fontainebleau behind us it was time to venture onto the next chapter. England! Sheffield!

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  3. Summer is gone

    Summer as always went by quickly, I think that the human beings should be on holidays 350 days a year… After finishing the maintenance works in the gym, on August 9 my girlfriend and I decided to leave for a 10 days tour between Val Daone and Zillertal. First stop in Val Daone, an enchanting valley beneath the Adamello, well known for its ice falls. In recent years a large group of climbers from Trento and Brescia is enhancing it with granite blocks which have nothing to envy to the Ticino ones. After one day running, I decided to try a block that I already spotted on Internet, a very beautiful top furrowed by very good crimps released by Gabriele Moroni. I spent half a day searching for the best sequence for hands and feet, but after the first laps from the bottom I realized that I spent too much energy in the study of movements and I decided to come back more rested the day after. Next morning I waked up painfully, because in the last few days I did not train and I touched no grip. I tried to warm up very quietly on the blocks and put my engine at the right speed, in order to let my lactic acid pains disappear. It was a good choice because after 45 minutes training on the blocks between 6B and 6C, my pains seem to fade and my body have fine sensations. I put myself under the block, I cleaned the grips and made two useless laps during which my foot slipped on the last movements…I got angry a lot. I nervously lighted up another cigarette…then I received a phone call by a colleague, I spent ten minutes on the phone thanks to which I probably forgot what happened shortly before. I wore my shoes, I placed myself at the starting point and I started: I somehow pulled out the tension and anger and I climbed flowing as it happened a very few times in my life. I reached the top and I laughed to myself: it also has been. [caption id="attachment_7550" align="aligncenter" width="640" caption="Photo by Massimo Ga
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  4. No Mystery (Low) 7A+/8B+. FA after broken hold.

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  5. Vid of the FA (after breake) of No Mystery, Chironico. 7A+/8B+.

    Hope you enjoy! For the story check: this moonblog-post No Mystery (low), Chironico. 7A+/8B+. FA after broken hold. from Moon Climbing on Vimeo.

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