Posted: October 02, 2015
I write this Blog having just got back to our Gite in Gap after a great day climbing in Ceuse. Ive only ever had 1 day at Ceuse and that was way back in 1995. I am now wondering what I have been doing with my life for the past 20 years! Many claim it to be the best sport-climbing cliff in the world and it would be hard to argue with this claim. Bullet hard limestone, stunning location, world class routes in all directions and at least on the routes I climbed today a definite old school feel about them. We headed up to the Berlin sector and warmed up on a technical 6b+ face climb that really reminded me of the Styx wall at Buoux, keeping you on your toes, literally speaking all the way to the belay. Blocage Violence and Changement le Look both 7b+ quickly followed. Does sport-climbing get any better than this? Both uber-classic routes and the latter a gift from the French legend and early Ceuse pioneer Patrick Edlinger. I absolutely love this style of climbing, which requires good technique, strong fingers, a steady head and is no gift at the grade either. Proper old school sport-climbing and an antidote to the over bolted, over graded and bland sport-climbing often found elsewhere in Europe. Roll on tomorrow
Posted: September 28, 2015
Born in the suburbs of London in 1966, Moon started rock climbing on the sandstone outcrops of Kent and Sussex. A pioneer in the sport-climbing revolution of the 1980s and a bouldering legend in the 1990s, he is one of the most iconic rock climbers in the sports history.
25 years ago, he was the first person to climb Hubble at Raven Tor. At its inception, Hubble was the hardest sport route in the world, now widely recognised as the world's first F9a. And of June this year, Ben made an inspirational ascent of Rainshadow (9a) at Malham Cove in Yorkshire.
Ben Moon hit the climbing headlines this June, redpointing Rainshadow at Malham Cove, his second route graded 9a. Incredibly this was just a few days before his 49th birthday and 25 years after climbing Hubble, his first 9a, leading to an outbreak of mass motivation/depression among middle-aged climbers across the world. A true legend who transformed the standards of top-end rock climbing, Ben is also a successful businessman who has developed his own brand of climbing clothing and equipment while somehow managing to train hard and be a family man. We should hate him, but of course we dont. Find out what makes Ben tick at this one-off lecture for Kendal.
book your tickets now HERE
I apologise for bombarding you with stuff about my recent ascent of Rainshadow but I promise this will be the last post. I still find it hard to believe that I managed to redpoint this route and that today I am uploading a film of the actual ascent. The incredible thing about this is that today is the 14th June which is the date I climbed my first 9a Hubble 25 years ago. I really couldn't have scripted this better.
Posted: June 12, 2015
So from my Rainshadow Blog a couple of days ago we are jumping back a quarter of a century to 14th June 1990 when I climbed Hubble, my first 9a. To be honest I can't believe how it's all worked out because I couldn't have planned it better if I tried and I can't believe I am writing this.
Yesterday I realised the dream I had of climbing Steve McClures classic 9a route Rainshadow. Here's the story of what led me to begin redpointing the route that could possibly be the hardest route I've ever climbed...