08 / 07 / 2024
Since 2008 when I first saw this route I really wanted to climb it because the moves and the line itself looked amazing. So I started slowly trying it and figuring out the moves.
The line starts from the beginning with hard boulder continues onto the roof with pockets and crimps and then all the way to the top on the roof using pockets, crimps and small tufas without any good rest, finishing with the crux at the end.
I realized while trying that it was well above my limit because I did all the moves at my limit and the line is a classic power endurance climb. After a couple of months my first kid came in the world then we had the second child and everything went at second priority, no more tries on it, no more time for climbing (the parents can understand ;) ) One other thing was that my belayer was no longer available and there were no local climbers on the island. In the meantime I built a small climbing gym in Kalymnos mostly for the local people to start climbing and also it was good for me to train a couple hours per day.
Since 2011 I focused more on bouldering and indoor training, I spent a lot of hours on training ,and after a few years a lot of friends thought that I will never go back on rope climbing.
Time passed and my kids have grown, some locals started climbing, so it was a perfect time for me to go back on rope climbing and spend 6-8 hours per day at the crags with some good friends. I started again from where I stopped......from 'Inshallah"
I started around the midle of March to try again seriously the line and it felt that my training all these years pays me off . My attempts were getting better on every try but I was a bit nervous because the heat was coming day by day. I wanted good weather with a bit of north wind, so on the 30/6 everything was perfect, not too hot with north wind and not too humid. At 18:00 in the evening I went on the route without warm up and I reached the top without realizing it.
I'm really proud of this accent because it is the first confirmed 8c+ climbed by a greek climber!!
Watch the video here