Text by David Falt Some significant events have taken place lately. The american wonder girl Sasha Digulian sent her second 9a by repeating Chris Sharma's Era Vella, 9a in Margalef after six days of work. This is a stunning performance by any standards. Swedish Matilda Söderlund went to Spain on an virtual onsight rampage earning her headlines in a number of climbing magazines for her three 8b onsights and up on returning the other day she flashed a 8b+. MOON Climber Martin Keller sent his project "Der Mit den Fels Tanzt" fro witch Martin proposed 8C. Martin spent more that 100 days working the project. We at MOON Climbing are super happy for you Martin and we hope this send will inspire you to try new "impossible" project and turn them around and send them. In the category of stubborn super achievements we have to mention Catalan female climber Silvia Vidal's new route, Espiadimonis (6b, A4, IV+ 1500m) on the Serrania Avalancha wall in Chile (Patagonia). Vidal climbed the route alone over the course of thirty-two days in February and March. Some media is speculating that Adam Ondra is getting closer to do the worlds first 9a onsight. If and when that happens it has to be considered a quantum leap for modern sport climbing. An other good performance this wet spring in the UK is coming from an other MOON Climber Ed Hamer who just turned 20 celebrated that with sending two 8B boulders. Ed is one of the most promising and low key raising stars on the British climbing scene. Ed climbed for a week with and other under the radar strong man James Noble. James might be unknown to most of the climbing community in the UK and the rest of the world but he is a truly multi talented climber well worth keeping tabs on. He will for sure pull a few very hard climbs off adding to an already impressive tick list.' Then I just noticed that Dave Graham
Up until now this year has been pretty uneventful for me. There has only been three things worth mentioning, actually.
The first event of the year was the Nordic Championships in bouldering. The competition were held in Copenhagen, Denmark which suited me quite well, since I have been there for both training and competing many times. It is an amazing gym with an amazing crew, who arranged the competition very well! I finished the qualification round in second place. In the finals I flashed the first and the last problem. With two tops I won the competition! I was very happy (Congratulations from us at MOON! )
Katrine at the Nordic Championship
The second event of this year was my trip to Turkey. Since it has been a long time since I had seen some real rock, I was so much looking forward to do some rock climbing again. In fact, I felt like I was eleven years old again, heading off to my very first rock climbing trip ever, when I finally sat inside the airplane going to Antalya. The trip was great. Besides the fact that I was in the worst shape in a very long time due to the huge amount of homework and assignments lately, I really enjoyed the trip. It was very relaxed and I had so much fun. I mostly climbed 7th grade routes, primary 7a's and a single 7b. All was in my comfort zone which was exactly how I liked it to be.
In the beginning of this year I decided to compete on the World Cup in Log, like last year. Its been a year since my last World Cup competition and I thought it could be fun and also good for me to train with the whole team. So I did it, but it didn't work out as I wanted. Yesterday, (22.4.2012) I finished 19th in the semifinals. But it all went wrong a few weeks before.
Like I said, I trained with the team since January. It was pretty hard for me to keep up with them. But I thought, this way, Ill get really strong for the competition and after it I could send some hard stuff outside. Then I pulled my little finger 3 weeks before the competition. First I thought its nothing but then it bothered me every time I wanted to crimp something. So I avoided crimps for some time and hopped for the best. I really tried to stay positive. Like this wasn't enough, I caught a terrible cold a week before and with all that trouble I kind of lost my psyche.
Anyway, I wanted to enjoy the competition and decided to focus on my feelings and movement on the wall. I managed to do that really good in the qualification round. I topped all the boulders and enjoyed my climbing again. I was very happy with it. The next day my plan was to do it again. Feel the moves and climb with a flow. But I couldnt do it. The boulders were much harder, which wasnt a problem. I expected that. It was just so crimpy and powerful and I couldnt even get to the fighting mood and do my best. I was just struggling with every move and trying to do something. Pretty frustrating.
My team mate Mina won the event. She crushed it in front of the amazing home crowd. It wo
We all headed down to the Churnet to check out the amazing looking Ina's Rock. This is a truly awesome piece of weathered sandstone hidden away in the woods, with two classic highball/solo's side by side. With a big team and the biggest load of crash pads I've ever seen, we were ready for action! First line to go down was Thumberlina (highball V6 or E6), this is a brilliant line up a smooth wall with a weird pockety start involving a big heal hook. Then some positive crimpers and a final scary lunge right at the top! This got 5 ascents in good time! Next up we moved all the pads over to the left and got stuck into the harder Cornelius (V9 or E7/8). Anyway Dave Mason showed the way with a stylish ascent followed by myself! What a great day!!
After a great weekend I had some rest before heading up to Kendal for a British Team training event! This involved 5 routes from 7c to 8a+. We had to complete as many as we could out of the 5. This was a great session and thanks to the route setters who put up some fantastic sequences. The next day consisted of 90 deg lock offs, pull ups, campusing, dead hangs and core workouts. All in all the weekend was great! Once I was back, the next day I went out to try this route called Boot Boys 8a+ at the amazing horrible Raven Tor. The route is about 10m long with 4 clips. You start up this V4 boulder problem then into the crux. The way that some people have done it is by using this horrible deep pinky mono to then make a killer move to this small edge (DANGER). I unfortunately was unable to fit my finger into it but was able to span from the good hold past the mono to the small edge! (Thank God!) Quick tick but albeit an unpleasant one!
The next weekend was the Climbing Works International Festival. This is an amazing event with loads of problems to try, ending with a palm sweating final. The qualifying day involves climbing 30 problems in 3 hours with only 3 goes. The grades go up to around 7C/V9. 20 competitors will