1. CWIF Competition

    Before heading out to Siruana I received a text message from ex British Bouldering Champion Gareth Parry inviting me to compete in one of his Bloc Fest competitions. Since the comp was the next day it was a bit last minute and I had to decline. Strangely the invite coincided with a dream I had had the night before in which I was back in the competition arena. Goodness knows what Freud would have made of that, midlife crisis perhaps? Anyway whilst in Siruana I had the crazy idea of entering a Moon team in the up and coming CWIF competition at The Climbing Works. After a few phone calls and text messages I had recruited British junior champion Molly-Thompson Smith, young talent Tom Newman, my friend and Climbing Works regular Bob Smith and some old has been called Ben Moon. Since returning from Siruana work and family commitments have meant that my climbing and training have taken a back seat but in a token effort to prepare for CWIF I did squeeze in one session at The Climbing Works on Wednesday evening. After 3 hours of working my way round the hard and technical myrtle circuit with Bob Smith and Neil Mawson I was starting to regret my decision to compete. Both Neil and Bob were in excellent form. Neil was particularly impressive showing excellent technique and stamina on a hard circuit he had not climbed on before. I was pretty much finished by the half way mark but kept going just to keep them company. That was two days ago and I am still suffering. Oh dear! When will you ever learn? CWIF tomorrow, just hope I don’t let my teammates down.

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  2. One month of Chaos, and some comps

    It has been too long ago since my last blog post. This spring I have trained indoor, studied a lot (I achieved my Bachelor degree in sociology) and did some comps. Due to finger injuries and study stress I messed up the boulder Worldcups in Log Dragomer and Vienna, because of that I decided to skip the Innsbruck comp to give my fingers some rest. In that period I still went to the gym but I didn't do any rock climbing. That changed in August, the plan was to go to Targasonne for a month! On the third of August we left to the Pyrenees, I felt physical fit and, with my Bachelor degree in the pocket, mentally strong. My goals where high, I wanted to send three 8b's (in perspective, I only did one 8b boulder before this trip). Targasonne is positioned in the middle of the beautiful Pyrenees on the French side of French/Spanish border. Because of its high altitude (approximately 1500m) it is suitable for summer bouldering. It is still hot on midday but the mornings and evenings are cool enough to climb, the nights can be pretty chilly but I like that. The climbing is on granite, not the Swiss kind of granite but a more sharp and rough type. The shapes of the boulders and holds reminds me of Fontainebleau, with the type of the rock being the big difference . The Another thing that reminds me of Font are the wide diversity of grades, from 3 to 8b(+) with a lot of fives and sixes. This in contrast to Magic Wood (another summer destination) which favors the stronger climbers. I would like to recommend Targasonne as an A-class boulder destination! (and no I didn't received any money from the French tourist council, I just had a good time). I said that the conditions are ideal on the morning and evening, but to be honest I only know the evening friction. We never got up out of bed early (I hate that) to try out the (supposedly superior) morning conditions. This resulted in a relaxed boulder vacation, the only downside was that I simply couldn't so some of the problems I had

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  3. Deep Water Solo Contest

    I returned home from my summer trip to France with an 8a red point, lots of other routes, a good tan and a feeling that I could, if I wanted to, get in a really great shape in a short period of time. But since the next international competitions I will be participating in is not set until october and november I chose to take it easy and enjoy what was left of my summer vacation.

    However, this weekend on the 1st of september there was a competition located near the place I live. In Aalborg at the harbour frontage, a Deep Water Solo contest took place. Of course I had to participate! In this life there is only one thing that I really, deeply hate; cold water. Even in the summer when it is 30 degrees outside and most people just dives into the nearest bathing place as quick as possible, it can actually take more than half an hour for me just to get my feet into the water. So to contest in a Deep Water Solo contest above a harbour has never even occurred as a possibility for me. But since the competition was planned by people from my climbing gym and located in my city, I felt that I had to contest - and I wanted to as well! I just had to overcome my awkwardness and face my fear.

    Katrine simply could not wait to dive into the sea water -

    After two qualifying rounds six girls and nine men went on to the finals. I had topped both of the qualifying routes but was ranked second due to the new rule where, in case of resemblance between the competitors, time will part and the fastest will lead. Therefore my friend Primula were leading the competition since she altogether had been two seconds faster than me.

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  4. Training, competitions and finally Rock Climbing!

    I can finally write a new blog! :) In the last months I have been very busy with school because I had the exams, but luckily the school is over and now I can climb seriously. I trained a lot because I had some Italian Cup competitions to participate in.  

    -Italy Boulder Cup in Ivrea: 7th place -Italy Boulder Cup in Firenze: 29th place (my worst comp, I was not really in shape). -Italy Boulder Cup in Gressoney: 5th place (my best result, I was in the final with five other athletes, I was so happy.)   Some bouldering outside that I have sent: -Paperella 7c Champorcher -Cheligna 7b+ Champorcher -Scala Reale 7b+ (Flash) Chiavolino - Marlon Brando 7b (Flash) Gaby I have done some nice sport climbing and some very nice routes in my area and in Trento (Arco) - Coca Cola Kid 7c+/8a ( four spit long, it is powerful route!) - Vampirella 8a (Flash) ( My first 8a Flash ever, I am really proud! It is the first 8a climbed in Aosta Valley, I climbed this route in the same day of Coca Cola Kid) - Faith 8a - Thor 7c (Flash), Trento (Arco) - In Bibita 7c/c+ (Flash), Trento (Arco) - Nonamed 7b+ (Flash), Trento (Arco) Casa mia 7b+ (Flash), Trento (Arco) Last Week I went to Ceuse to relax my mind from everything, but I did a lot of boulders in fact I was really pumped and tired. I climbed just easy routes:
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  5. Ben Moon's Climbing Diary

    Although I might have been a bit slack in re-releasing my old climbing diaries, back in June and July of 1990 I was definitely not slacking. Fresh from my success on Hubble, the worlds first 8c+ my attentions have turned to the world cup leading comps in Spain and Italy in a few weeks time. After focusing on strength for the past few months it’s now time to work my endurance and on sight skills in preparation for the up and coming competitions.

    24th June 1990

    “Kilnsey. Warm up. Try Dreamtime. Fall. Do it second try. Bad weather, tried The Bulge. Fall near top. Felt good on it. Pumped out. Try redpoint, fall same place! Very greasy. Medium day”. I vaguely remember this day, both trying and failing to onsight both these routes. 25th June 1990 “Filmed Hubble then pumped out hard. Body Machine, up and down Indecent Exposure, Chimes of Freedom, In Brine, Rooster Booster. Short rests but felt good stamina. Hard day.” 26th June 1990 “Light day top roping Great Slab routes on Froggatt with 2 and 1 hands. Did Hairless Heart one-handed. No big deal. Must do more grit.” This day of doing easy routes on grit might seem a bit weird when thrown in amongst this strength and endurance training but actually it’s great and I obviously thought at the time I should be doing more. It’s great climbing on different rock types and it’s active rest which means it’s helping you to recover from your hard climbing days whilst still climbing. 27th June 1990 “Kilnsey. Did The Bulge 2nd try, Man with a Gun 2nd try. Fell on The Ashes at top, fel
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