Posted: August 29, 2013
I'm having a great time here in Boulder. In a week I've spent here I got over the jet lag, got used to the altitude and did some classic problems in RMNP and Mt. Evans. When you start hiking up to the boulders you cant know whats gonna happen that day. Is it gonna be a fresh sunny day or are we gonna get rained out? The weather is so unpredictable. You just have to go and see what happens.
Yesterday I had a good day. We went to Emerald Lake and I did Tommy's other arete, a cool V9. I was so tired from the day before when we hiked down from Mt. Evans in the rain and came to the car completely soaked. So the next day in RMNP didn't look promising. I hardly did the warm ups and got stuck at the second move in my project for that day. I was already thinking that Ill have to come back for this one, but then I did it and walked out feeling happy that I didn't give up even if it looked like it really wasn't my day.
I have 3 weeks left, still some places to see and many boulders to climb. Stay tuned!
Posted: August 24, 2013
Magic Wood, one of my favorite places in the world. Good bouldering and the most stunning forest you'll ever see in your life. I had mixed goals in Magic, on the one hand I wanted to do some eight degree boulders, but on the other hand I wanted to push my level a bit and work in New Base Line (8b+). Working in an 8b+ and try to send multiple 8's isn't an option in just one week. I've discovered that I have a hard time projecting a boulder over multiple days if the time is limited. If I have for example a month and there is now time pressure I have no problems with longer projects, but if I am on a short trip the urge to have some quick successes usually has the upper hand. Besides this urge to have some quick sends, it was warm in the forest. Not just a bit warmer than usual but more like boiling hot. On the other hand it only rained a few times in the evening. So we were lucky with the weather, it was just impossible for me to try New Base Line. Instead I did some other very good problems such as: Steppenwolf 8b, first time I saw this one dry, wanted to try it for a long time already. Sofa Surfer 8a+, 8a/8a+, needed a night session to stick the sloper, felt like hard 8a+ for me, might be easier with good conditions. Unendliche Geschichte I 8a+, felt good, way better than I expected it to be. The right hand of Darkness 8a. Not a bad score for 6 climbing days. In October I'll go back for a week. Because Unendliche Geschichte I felt so good and I already did Unendliche Geschichte II I want to try the whole line (8b+). I just need a little more stamina and a good mindset to go for a multiple days project on a one week trip. We'll see how it goes. But before that I'll go on a two week trip to Sweden, Vastervik and Kjugekull. The goal is to climb the Hourglass 8b, a problem that is on my life time to do list. Photo's Steppenwolf & Wonderboy by: Gerrit Snoek Photo's Unendliche Geschichte I by: Kenji Tsujimaru [gallery link="file"
Posted: August 05, 2013
One more week and Ill be packing my bags for the trip to Colorado! Its been two and a half years since my last visit to The States and I cant wait to see my dear american friends and do nothing but climb for the whole month!In the meantime I'm trying to survive this heat wave and the best place to do that is by the So?a river where boulders are amazing and a chance to jump into the freezing cold water is more than welcome. Usually we climb beside the river but there are many blocs in the middle of it, sticking out, impossible to climb without the landing. But yesterday the guys found a unique thing. An amazing bloc in the middle of the current with a perfect landing! Theres only one way to try it. First, you jump on the block, climb a slab and jump down on the other side. The only way out is to do the mantle or youre stuck on the little rock island in the middle of the river. Klemen Be?an did the FA of the arrete called Shutter Island and I followed with the 2nd ascent. I think its about 7A but its so unique and special!
Posted: July 28, 2013
Four months have past since really good physical form and climbing conditions. In Ticino, springtime brought great succes and then I almost realized a long time project Bügeleisen in Maltatal. I was sooo close back there. Did it in two parts, quite easily actually. But afterwards bad weather started and everytime I came to Maltatal, Bügeleisen was wet, or at least the most important hold. So, I missed my chance. But after that, I really couldn't do a lot about it. My wife and I started to renovate our home in Slovenia and time started to fly ... without climbing! Well, almost. Still, I get the need for climbing, but knowing that there's 30°C outside, baby skin on my fingers and don't get me started on my physical shape. From time to time I go route climbing just to maintain my strength, at least I try to. There are times when I just want to go to, I don't know, Magic Wood maybe; still got some great lines to finish there. I always get so psyched when I see a clip of a beautiful hard line and my fingers start to sweat. Or maybe go back to Rocklands, when I hear that my friends are rocking it there. I definitely want to go to Val Bavona to try Heritage, Silvretta, ... and to Macedonia! I have to stop! Stop thinking about it and finish our house as soon as possible. If everything goes according to plan, we'll finish it till the start of September. Autumn is coming and good conditions with it. Slowly but shurely, the time to climb is coming. I guess my first trip is going to be Macedonia. I was there once before in 2008, when the boulders hadn't even been climbed yet. I guess we were the first climbers there. It is an amazing area to climb, even though we climbed just a little bit (it was around -10, -15°C outside). I comfort myself with the thought that everything remains. Boulders are waiting to be cleaned and climbed. Project after project, area after area. Until then, the house is my project. [gallery link="file"]
Posted: June 05, 2013
Well, it's been a crazy few months and has included some pretty big and very exciting developments. Unfortunately, most of them have not been related to climbing or bouldering. So, firstly I took a month off to try to rest some long term niggles, namely, a badly swollen knuckle on my middle finger and some elbow tendinitis that has been flaring up quite regularly. Apparently happens when one climbs five days a week. Sounds a bit crazy to me... Also, I have been preparing to open a restaurant with my brother and another mate quite a distance from the grampians. It has been pretty full on and has left very little time for climbing outdoors. Especially since I have started really getting back into martial arts. Even so, I have snuck in a few days here and there and have been able to start training properly, something that I haven't done in years. So, even though I have been limited by time, I have actually been making some gains on the campus and fingerboard. Added to which, I have been able to train with some of my good friends and really push myself a bit. I have had a few days on the rock here and there and have managed a couple of FA's, including a cool compression problem, Giant Squid, that comes in around 7c+ and will be at least another 2 grades from the sitter...