03 / 02 / 2024
The perfect weather down in Ticino made another trip inevitable. We packed our camper vans and took the four and a half hour drive once again to make use of the forecasted 15°C and strong wind. I trained a lot in the gym lately and knew that the time has come to try some of the harder stuff. The game was on for Boogalagga (V13) in Chironico. I think most of the people who have seen this problem would agree that it is one of the proudest lines in Ticino, nothing worse than things like Vecchio Leone, Dreamtime, or Limited Edition. I had no idea if I was already strong enough to seriously attempt that problem, I just knew that I had troubles getting my ass off the ground some two or three years ago before I left desperately after 10 minutes trying it. Luckily, this time was different and after figuring out the footwork it felt absolutely doable. I decided to take that tiny crimp around the corner with the left instead of the pinch, so this is not the original defined start. Im not sure if using that crimp makes the first move easier for everyone. For me it did, and its right there, easily reachable from the ground. Anyways, I fell off that first move a couple of times before I was able to stick that big slopy hole. Everything went perfect from there even though I became rather nervous because I didnt try the upper part before. All of a sudden I found myself on top of that amazing boulder and couldnt quite realize what just had happened. I think Philipp and Daniel, two friends of mine from Germany who gave me a spot, felt the same.
The next problem on the list was Amber (V13) in Brione. Finding that problem in the forest is the first crux. Finding the right beta for the upper part is the second it took me quite some time but eventually I could do it quite easily. Things didnt go so smooth for the first move though which involves a big gastone move from an awkward sitstart position. After 2 hours trying it, I finally stuck it but fell on the very last move. I was pissed, but very happy at the same time because I made quick progress and almost sent at the end of the day with bad skin and a weak body. So I knew it would go down soon. And it did. 2 days later I had it in the bag and walked out of the forest with the biggest smile on my face.
The next problem on the list was Amber (V13) in Brione. Finding that problem in the forest is the first crux. Finding the right beta for the upper part is the second it took me quite some time but eventually I could do it quite easily. Things didnt go so smooth for the first move though which involves a big gastone move from an awkward sitstart position. After 2 hours trying it, I finally stuck it but fell on the very last move. I was pissed, but very happy at the same time because I made quick progress and almost sent at the end of the day with bad skin and a weak body. So I knew it would go down soon. And it did. 2 days later I had it in the bag and walked out of the forest with the biggest smile on my face.