Climbing Diary

  1. From Kalymnos to Chironico...

    After a few months of training where I have been focusing on bouldering I thought it would be nice to visit one of the top bouldering spots in the world. Chironico. This was basically my first bouldering trip, all my previous trips have been rope climbing trips.

    So I found two beginners from my climbing wall and off we went!!!

    Our trip was too short, we only had four days, without a car and the village where we stayed was 15 km away from Chironico so the first day we just went to look at some of the problems since it was getting dark.

    On day two we were psyched to finally start climbing. We woke up early, to jump on the first bus... But we ended up taking the second bus... Finally we arrived in Chironico to go bouldering!!!

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  2. Back in the Harness

    Dealing with the blues upon my return to Australia after my European sojourn was not easily done. Sub zero temps and crushing new blocs was awesome. Coming back to 35degrees and work was sub optimal. But, after deciding that I would do some routes this year there was only one thing for it, get amongst it and get pumped.

    The Grampians, located 3 hours west of Melbourne in the almost desert environ of Western-Victoria is one of the most amazing places to climb anywhere, but if its easy clip ups that you’re after, you need to look elsewhere. Most of the sport routes in the Grampians require some serious work or some sort of mixed gear or have an old carrot bolt. Ridiculous, but good training I suppose.

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  3. Injured but Motivated!

    Winter in Split is allways best period to climb but this year things went wrong... Two months ago I went bouldering in Su?urac and few hours later ended in hospital with broken deltoid ligament in my ankle. I'm still not sure how this happened since I wasnt so high, there were many pads and spotters in the landing zone but somehow I rotated in the air and nobody couldnt stop me.

       This unexpected injury suddenly changed all my climbing plans and force me to take break from everything. I was thinking a lot about climbing and my life in general and started to believe that this accident have some purpose. After 7 days of complete rest (BTW. I didn't do this for ages!), I slowly started with some body workout exercises combined with fingerboard and gymnastic rings and felt great. Honestly I didn't do this type of training for few seasons so this was really positive shock for my body and mind. I almost forget that I am injured and for few weeks didn't miss climbing at all. Just wanted to simply train and sessions were great – always motivated and always with progressive loading.

    This broken deltoid ligament is pretty complicated injury. I read somewhere that it happened in just 10% of ankle injuries and it really needs time to heal completely. While exploring some methods which could help in regeneration I discovered Gavez (lat.symphytum officinale), plant very often used in alternative medicine for all kind of joints and many other problems. Soon after applying a compress filled with Gavez root my hematom visibly reduced and I was shocked. It is possible to find Gavez in root, gel or as a cream but it is maybe better to google or ask some expert for advice before using it.

    Two weeks ago I was finally able to put my climbing shoes on and though I still cant use my foot completely I started with some easy sport climbing. Together with friends from Split in a few days I am leaving for 10 days trip to Macedonian boulder mecca – Prilep. Although I am

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  4. Komilator 8A and getting pumped on routes...

    In last couple of months I have decided to focus on the boulders, so I have been back and fourth to Switzerlandworking on a few projects that I have had my eyes on for a while. I have climbed and trained quite hard and at the end of February I felt strong enough to try some boulders that I consider hard. One of the many boulders that I wanted to climb is Komilator 8a in Chironico, it is quite steep with small crimps, mostly my style of climbing! Still I had to try it quite a few times before figuring out the crux of. The crux is very strange because you have to put your heels in a precise way then take a small crimp with your right hand and then stay focused to keep the body tension! It was really exciting for me to climb this boulder and a truly magic moment. I could not believe I sent it! The second boulder I did was Doctor Pinch 7c+. It flows nice with good moves and I decided to try and Flash it! After I had seen all the moves I was ready to try it. I did a mistake but I still managed to dispatch it....I was really glad! ;) In April I was back in Chironico to spend some more time in the woods before the warm weather arrived. I wanted to do a long boulder called Arete with the pocket 7c+/8a. I spent only one and a half hour to figure it out and sent it. Thanks to Rudy Ceria who wait and giving me the motivation to keep trying. I also want to congratulate my brother for having climbed it just after me!  

    Other boulders that I climbed and I consider good and beautiful are: Le Monolithe 7b+, Le Flipper 7b, That goes left 7c, Doctor Med Dent 7b (flash) After Chironico we spent one day in Brione, I think that the quality of rock is awesome, one of the best kind of rock I ever seen. I did some really amazing problems like Molonk 7c and Atlantis

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  5. Too Hot in Ceuse in March...

    The Ceuse season has officially kicked off ! Sadly with a spring heat wave... Last year it was pretty cold and crisp conditions climbing in Ceuse during April. Yesterday on March 28th we hiked up a wee bit exited to be back. We warmed up on Zagreb a classic 6c on Berlin. I did two Lapp's trying to get in to the Cuses feeling. The climbing in Ceuse is spectacular, but some times the crowds can be a bit too much. However we where only two other climbers on the entire crag so plenty of space... We moved on to try Makach Walou a 7c+ on Berlin. Sadly it was way tooooo hot to do any serious attempts so I had a nap in the sun. We finished the day with La Javanaise 7a on Demi Lune. Jesus that route is quite stiff and scary or I had a bad day?

    For me it always take a few days to get used to the style and the rock before I climb well in Ceuse so I hope the teamps cool down and shade arrives a bit earlier in the afternoon so I can start working on a project . I noticed that some one has bolted a few really nice looking new lines. I especially noticed a fun looking new route just right of Tout nest pas facile a 7c+ I sent in June last year.

    Well I almost forgot... NOT... I sent Coloscopie 7c+ (8a in topo) in St Leger. I think the route might be a bit soft to deserve the grade its been given if you climb it like I did. I went low and left in the crux skipping a clip (that I think makes the route a bit contrived). I think its an entire different ball game going straight up in the crux and a full on 8a. I have no Idea what is right or wrong in terms of beta, I just did the route in the only way possible for me. I also sent Arque Pied Tendre 7b+ on 3rd in St Leger. This route must be one of the best routes I have ever climbed, but stiff for the grade I think. Its a 42 meter monster route very sustained and varied climbing a must if you pass by St Leger.

     

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