In last couple of months I have decided to focus on the boulders, so I have been back and fourth to Switzerlandworking on a few projects that I have had my eyes on for a while. I have climbed and trained quite hard and at the end of February I felt strong enough to try some boulders that I consider hard. One of the many boulders that I wanted to climb is Komilator 8a in Chironico, it is quite steep with small crimps, mostly my style of climbing! Still I had to try it quite a few times before figuring out the crux of. The crux is very strange because you have to put your heels in a precise way then take a small crimp with your right hand and then stay focused to keep the body tension! It was really exciting for me to climb this boulder and a truly magic moment. I could not believe I sent it! The second boulder I did was Doctor Pinch 7c+. It flows nice with good moves and I decided to try and Flash it! After I had seen all the moves I was ready to try it. I did a mistake but I still managed to dispatch it....I was really glad! ;) In April I was back in Chironico to spend some more time in the woods before the warm weather arrived. I wanted to do a long boulder called Arete with the pocket 7c+/8a. I spent only one and a half hour to figure it out and sent it. Thanks to Rudy Ceria who wait and giving me the motivation to keep trying. I also want to congratulate my brother for having climbed it just after me!
Other boulders that I climbed and I consider good and beautiful are: Le Monolithe 7b+, Le Flipper 7b, That goes left 7c, Doctor Med Dent 7b (flash) After Chironico we spent one day in Brione, I think that the quality of rock is awesome, one of the best kind of rock I ever seen. I did some really amazing problems like Molonk 7c and Atlantis 7b+. I tried Frogger a boulder near the blue river that goes through the beautiful valley. I think this boulder is one I have ever tried. The color of rock is orange and it composed of strange pockets and crimps but unfortunately I could not climb it, I hope I can come back and send it. After sending some much desired boulder projects I decided to start sport climbing again. It was rough in the beginning as I lacked endurance so I opted for short and bouldery routes and so far I have sent the following: Nigthmare 8a: one of the best lines I did in Aosta Valley (2nd go) Spiriti nella Nebbia 8a: in my opinion 8a/a+, physical route on crimps (3rd go) Tra le Mura 7c/+: new route on a new crag in Aosta Valley.(Second Ascent) Nonamed 7b+ Check out this video! http://vimeo.com/38107777