bouldering

  1. Insanity of Grandeur

    [caption id="attachment_17443" align="aligncenter" width="980"]_DSC4872-MKeller_Illusion Insantiy of Grandeur, 8C - Chironico. Pic by angelawagner.ch[/caption] Already back in 2004 I was sitting underneath this big boulder in the 101-area at Chironico. I wanted to try the newly established problems "Einfisch" and "Delusion" but unintendedly tried them from a lower (and much harder) start. I could not do one move from that lower start but also was unable to climb more then a few moves from the existing problems. But from the very moment I was hooked up by the features and the lines on that impressive boulder, it looked just too good not to be climbed. [caption id="attachment_17447" align="aligncenter" width="980"]_DSC4816-MKeller_Illusion Insantiy of Grandeur, 8C - Chironico. Pic by angelawagner.ch[/caption] In 2009 I was back and managed to send "Einfisch" - and started to have a look at that low-start again. It took a while. After a lot of puzzle-solving and many falls from the very last moves I manged to establish "Der mit dem Fels tanzt, 8C" in late spring 2012. Right after this ascent I had a look a the logical other line to this funky and powerful lowstart. Trying to exit straight over "Delusion". I made good use of my form and was getting close but injured myself pretty bad on another project. Meanwhile visiting strongman Dai Koyamda did the first asent of the line and called it "Insanity of Grandeur, 8C". After one year of rehab I was back and getting close again but then winter hit and it was just too cold. Next spring I managed to fall twice a day two moves from

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  2. LAST MOVES AGAIN - AND A LITTLE SEND

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="715"] After waiting all day at Ticino for "Insanity" to dry without success; change of program: Walk up to Sustenpass, 2000m above sea level, 1st of Dezember; "Highlander-Project", 0:30AM, 0C, very windy, COLD, climbing into the last move again...[/caption] It looks like it just does not matter what i try and when i try... i can make my way up to the last move(s) of any of my lifetime projects, at -2C or at +20C... in the dry... in the wet... but just don't send... either it's too cold, i am too tired, too rested, too.... "something"... and then i suddenly start falling off the first move.... then every other move and then fighting up to the last one again... to go down on that as well... but i am working on the "something" - and i will get to that top(s)... sooner or later!!! [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="733"] "Insanity of Grandeur, 8C'ish" - You can get to the lip and still go down - Just froze off while resting and desperately trying to get any sensation back into my fingertips... - grrrrrrrrrr[/caption] I brushed it up some years ago, came close, got injured and now at least I managed to climb  "Big-Cat"- Standstart!!! Super powerful, great moves, subtle mantle at the end - full package - one of the best of the grade in Ticino for sure!!! A bit a shame it's pretty morpho. But then so much more fun to climb if you are not (super) tall. Around 8A for the TALL, 8A+ for the intermediate (me), 8B for the shorties. And if i would try the low-start of Big-Cat for once not just after falling off the end of "Insanity" - i think i could have a good go on the full line as well

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  3. My trip to US and all that sandstone

    It was finally here - the time to pack my bags and fly to Vegas. A month of a simple life in a desert was waiting for us and so were all that blocs out there. We've been on a trip to US before. Somehow we end up coming back almost every year. This time we decided to see what Nevada and Utah have to offer. [caption id="attachment_17340" align="aligncenter" width="300"]IMG_1339 (1) Amazing Plumber's Crack[/caption] First stop: Red Rocks. That place truly blew me away. So many different colours and shapes of rock and styles of climbing. You can find anything and everything is so good. I enjoyed the whole experience. From walking to the boulders and just looking around, to super fun warm ups and finally, the trying hard on something that was "on the menu" for that day. [caption id="attachment_17341" align="aligncenter" width="300"]Trying Show of Hands in Moe's Trying Show of Hands in Moe's[/caption] After a few days of exploring, getting over the jet leg and sending some easier classics, we were off to Utah. Moe's Valley was on the way so we wanted to stop there for a day or so and we ended up staying a bit more. It's a small but concentrated area with some really amazing lines. My favourite climbs there were Gription (V9) and the problem called Show of Hands (V11), which turned out to be a bit to hard for me to do it in one day. [caption id="attachment_17342" align="aligncenter" width="300"]

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  4. Summer road trip in the United States

    In the past years, my bigger trips abroad have always been revolving around climbing. It was usually  about finding the right spot with the right conditions at that time and go for it. And it was great! Our passion is climbing and what's better than travelling to a foreign country to do so! On another hand, those trips never left room for anything else than the sport though, which also can be a bit of a pity sometimes when I look back. Mostly, I would be stuck in one place only - the crag and  the town (or village) you would stay or buy your groceries from. There have always been good intentions in the forefront of the trip, of what cool things you could go see on your rest days! Or even cut down some of the climbing days at the beginning/end to travel somewhere close, not for climbing! But in the end it never actually happened... On rest days you're always too tired and lazy to do any other than chill out and take care of your skin. And you won't be cutting the climbing days because there is no way to leave with unfinished business! All this means for example, that I have been to the US five times already, but haven't seen more than El Paso, Boulder and Bishop, besides all the great climbing of course. I've driven to a cave somewhere in Texas but that's it. So I figured I would really love to see more of the States. The idea emerged of doing a trip in summer, but this time focusing on actually seeing as much of the country and it's iconic places and cities as possible. Bloody sightseeing to name it. But of course this could at least involve checking out some of the crags along the way too -just to trick my brain a bit - and see if they would be worth another visit when the temps are cooler... You could call it 'crag - sightseeing'! [caption id="attachment_16360" align="aligncenter" width="750"]

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  5. Summer report

    This was one busy summer for me. I spent most of my days in our gym with the team preparing for the comps, route setting and then going from one world cup to another. The highlight was, of course, world championships in Munich. In my competition years there was also a world championships in 2005and If I look back now, it's so funny how things change. Bouldering was still pretty new to me at that time but I was very ambitious and I was ready to work hard to achieve my goals as a competitor. Now I'm looking at the comps from a different perspective - as a coach and I'm very happy to have a chance to work with such a cool team. Although I missed some time for my climbing this summer, all the work and ups and downs of the season payed off with Jernej Kruder taking a silver medal in Munich. It was a big and well deserved medal for him and for our team!

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