blog

  1. Kajsa Rosén, One Of A Few | At The Pinnacle Of Climbing Achievement

    Kajsa Rosén, Our #MoonTeam legend from Sweden , talks about sending 8c on-sight T-1 Full Equip in Oliana, Spain. She is one of a select few who will ever achieved this grade, with the world's first being climbed in 2004.     Epic tv made this short film about her exploits.    
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  2. Doing my ticks by Bernard Fielder

    Last year I continued to play my favourite game. I was running around in the woods searching for virgin lines. I was spending my money on rental cars and flight tickets, to get my hands on golden rock. My daydreams were dedicated to certain structures on certain rocks, which I used to call "Projekts“ at certain times. At other times it was quite tricky for me to tell the gym and my living room apart. To make a 365 day story short I will drop some names and numbers conscious of all the adventures, stories, peoples and moments I fade out by choosing this method.   During the Wintertime I visited the beautiful Areas around Finale and Varrazze two times, but couldn`t sent big numbers. In my Home area „Niemandsland“ in lower Austria I was lucky to climb two hard projects of mine: „Algorythmus“ maybe 8c+ first ascent It`s a proud prow and an extention to „Glasperlenspiel“.  After the Rest in the middle climb direktly on the steep and bouldery prow. „Indotimes-extention“ 8c+ a long and tricky fourty meter Journey combining „Indo times“ and „Honig“   In the carinthian Maltatal I could do a couple of hard first ascents including „Psi“ 8b+ 40m an incredible endurance-challange „Dünnes Eis“ 8c „Walhalla“ 8c+ In the hottest days of the summer I succesfully fighted for the great „Marc“ 8b+ in the gastlosen / swiss   There were a couple of mentioning Bouldering- achivments in 2015 including „Afterlife“ 8B Felbertal „Durchsichtige Dinge“ 8A Wachau (first ascent, now I am close on the low start) „Skiroute 4“ 8b „Orgasmatron“ 8a/+ Maltatal   Further my buddy Florian Scheimpflug and me could eventually free all seven pitches of our 300m route „city slickers“ 8b which we bolted ground up And last but not least: I could finish first place in the bloc-gfraster 2015.   In September I had a hell of a climbingtrip in Argentina. My buddy Daniel Kalser and me were traversing the Andes to the chilenian see and back, doing some first ascents in 4200

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  3. The purple slopey dynamic boulder by Kajsa Rosen

    Yep, you heard me. This blog is going to be about the purple slopey, dynamic boulder. Purple slopy dynamical problem

    You may think; why is she dedicating a whole blog to a purple slopey, dynamic boulder? An indoor boulder that is probably going to be removed within the next month? Why not a spectacular boulder located in the forest of Fontainebleau? If you're having this thought, I definintly get your point, and I couldn't agree with you more. But the case is; I'm living in Sweden. Currently it's minus 20 degrees outside, and last time I checked, I'm not a ”minus grade boulderer”. So as long as it's not school holiday, this is what I have to go on. And I'm not complaining, rather the opposite.

    Chironico snow

    Last year in Chironico.Temperatures just above zero. Didn't even put my shoes on that day...

    This will sound cheesy. But this boulder is so much more than a purple slopy, dynamic boulder. Since slopers and dynamic moves aren't my best skills the boulder symbolises me developing outside my comfort zone. A new start to the new year. I'm super psyked for the coming training that will prepare me for the challanges this year's season will bring. Last season went great and now I have even bigger plans to hopefully get next season even better. But let's start working o

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  4. The Big Island by Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen

    The first time I tried the Island was in January 2013. What a beast! I could desperately make (most of) the single moves, but not the transitions from one body position to the next. Nevertheless I was intrigued by this problem, the most brutal and perfect compression climbing I've ever encountered. At this time I had never climbed anything near the level of difficulty of the Island. It weights in as a hard 8b+, and the full line ‘the Big Island’ is 8c. I knew I had to get a lot stronger to make a chance at climbing this problem, but I also knew that it would be a huge motivation for the upcoming years. Over the next couple of years I gradually started to train more and with that I became a better and stronger climber. In that period I visited the Island every now and then, and almost every time I made some progression. I think it was in the winter of 2014/2015 that I had the feeling of making an actual chance of climbing this problem in the (near) future. By that time I had already done my first 8b+ and felt a lot more confident to try those grades. I could do all the single moves and the necessary body position transitions. I also started to do some links, but after every link I was totally exhausted. At the end of the season I could do the full problem (the 8b+ version) in two overlapping links. Motivation stayed high and I started to do more specific strength training with the pullup-bar, rings and - my personal favourite - campusing boulder problems. All my training is as climbing specific as it can be without adding any extra weight. Physically training was paying off and this also had a great effect on my mental state. I was (and still am) climbing with a lot of confidence. I think that truly believing in your abilities makes you a better climber. Doubt, on the other hand, holds you back. At this time I knew I could do the Island, I actually wasn’t speaking of the Island anymore but of his big brother; the Big Island. I wasn’t feeling any pressure or doubt, the

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  5. Utah Bouldering Trip Katja Vidmar

    I'm sitting on a plane back home. The desert is thousands of miles away, but I still have sand in my hair, my face is sunburnt and my feet are still a bit cold. Desert life. I miss it already. We had a few wonderful weeks bouldering all around Utah, from Joe's Valley, Indian Creek and Big Bend, to Little Cottonwwod Canyon. image1 First days in Joe's just before Thanksgiving were nice and warm. Trying to climb everything and nothing at the same time. Just stopping by every boulder that looked good, no matter the grade or style. image2 In a few days we hit the road and drove to Moab where we got our food and water supplies, ate a big burger with bacon and avocado and we were ready for Indian Creek. We didn't know what to expect going there with crash pads. The place is beautiful and famous for crack climbing, not so much for bouldering. We were walking around enjoying the views, did some climbing still too close to the road and just wandering how many amazing blocs are there if you go deeper. It was to bad we didn't have a 4x4 drive and that we didn't run into Chris Schulte who knows where everything is. image3 Next was Big Bend. A small old school area with some really good climbs and hard grades. Trying hard in V4 was

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