In mid-June I was in Font, the season was over and I had no expectations. Just a week chilling in the forest, one of the nicest places I know. But despite the heat I was able to send my summer project Chaos (8b). I felt really strong and confident about the summer to come, 3 weeks sending in Silvretta. But things turned out different.
The day after we returned from Font I dislocated my kneecap, never go to the beach, what does a climber have to do on the beach anyway ;) I couldnt walk, couldnt drive, couldnt stretch my leg, nothing. Straight away I knew that Silvretta was off the table and I was worried that the whole summer would be a big (climbing) deception. I know I shouldnt whine too much, because I hardly ever have injuries. Recuperation still was boring, went way too slow and my mood was (occasionally) poor during it. Big thanks to my good friend and colleague Mathieu who helped me with this as a physiotherapist. The knee was slowly doing better and I was still motivated for climbing. The alternative destination was Sustenpass, the high altitude and short approach made it ideal. Things couldnt worked out better. Sustenpass really fits my style and despite the knee (which was feeling better every day) I might have been in my best shape ever. Every day I could send whatever I wanted, a great feeling. The only downside of Sustenpass is that it gets pretty cold in the evening, good for climbing but not the best for that summer holiday feeling. After a good ten days of sitting every evening in down jackets we decided to drive to Italy. We ended up in Val di Mello, weather wise the opposite of Sustenpass. Not the best for climbing but really nice for a summer holiday: sun, ice cream, pizza, and espresso, I will definitely go back to Mello one day when conditions are better. In the end I ticked fifteen 8th
degree boulders, including my first 8a flash. I also want to highlight Dulcifer (8a+) because of its beauty, maybe the best line I ever did on granite. Back home it is business as usual, right now I am sitting in flat and rainy Holland. But that sounds worse than it is. My knee is almost fully recovered, and the first trips to Font are already booked. So Im pushing myself a bit harder during training and I am confident it will be a good Font season this year!
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