Competitions

  1. My First Open Nationals

    The title says it all. ABS Open Nationals 2013. Only the most stacked comp in the country. How the hell did I end up here?   Well, once upon a time, there was a climber named Galina who decided she wasn't going to do Youth ABS this year because she was a complete idiot and didn't realize she actually had a chance of making the US Team but completely blew it due to her inability to make decisions. So she decided to do Open Nationals instead. Not because she thought she could win or place or anything, but because she thought it would be a good experience. Which it was. Worth every penny of the $185 entry fee. Also it took place in the Colorado Springs auditorium, which is about 5 minutes from campus. I'm not going to go through and describe every problem like I usually do because there were nine problems in all (between Qualifiers and Semis) and I would hate to put you through the pain of reading about every single one of them. Also, there's a video with everything except the first qualifier (camera malfunction...), and if pictures are better than words then what are videos. Instead, these are The Highlights, The Fuck-Ups, and How to Avoid Fuck-Ups Next Year (Yes, There Will Be a Next Year). As a side note, don't be fooled by the ratio of Highlights to Fuck-Ups. Climbing-wise there were actually a lot more fuck-ups, I just chose to compress them into a nice little paragraph. Overall, though, I'm happy with how I did. Satisfied? No--is there such a thing? Happy? Yes.  

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  2. JIBS: Ends and Beginnings

    JIBS. Junior Indoor Bouldering Series. This competition will always hold a special place in my heart. There's just something about woody walls, old greasy holds, incredible setting, and the whole community vibe that the Philadelphia Rock Gym creates every year. If I couldn't climb at Prime Climb anymore, this would undoubtedly be my gym of choice. I almost didn't make it this year, mainly due to the fact that I'm in Colorado Springs and Philadelphia is about 1,671.2 miles away. Yet somehow all the cards aligned, and on February 7th, I found myself on a plane headed to La Guardia in New York, racing to beat Nemo, the due-to-be snowstorm of the century. Fortunately, I was able to book an earlier flight, which conveniently gave me more time to study for my Russian final. And we spent two nights at our New Jersey family’s house (at least the closest we have to family here in the States). Qualifiers were smooth sailing, as usual. I ended up finding a bunch of crimpy 700s and 800s to fill up my scorecard, all of which I either flashed or sent second go. The problems were super tight, even though there wasn’t anything flashy or particularly out-of-the-box, especially compared to some of the more recent comps I’ve done (Dark Horse much?). Just solid climbing, which has definitely been missing from my life these past few months. The main thing that struck me from Qualifiers was the atmosphere. Kids who I had met once or twice before, and stayed in touch with only through occasional Facebook likes, would cheer me on on almost every problem, and offer their congrats after each send. It’s those little things that bring a comp from good to exceptional. If only I had more time. This was, regrettably, going to be my last JIBS before I aged out. After deciding that I definitely qualified, my mom and I headed out to do some shopping, eating, and more shopping (not like there’s much else to do in the six hours between Qualis and Finals). Being away in Colorado had definitely taken its

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  3. Comps 2013

    I know, I haven't written any blog in a while. Honestly, nothing special has happened... Except from when I won the Nordic Championship in lead... That was a while ago so I guess it's to late to write about it now. However, I must say it was a really great and fun competition. “Solna climbing club” always arranges fantastic competitions, I must thank them big:)

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  4. TIME OF RAIN? POSTO DI BLOCCO BOULDER COMPETITION!

    Two weeks of rainy weather don't leave any crags dry enough for climbing ... Here in northern Italy right now we have to take refuge in the gym... At Postodiblocco Climbing Village we organized the penultimate stage of the most important winter bouldering circuit in northern Italy, TCC (Torino climbing challenge) and we had a record attendance with 230 climbers of all levels and ages facing numerous boulders prepared for the occasion by route setter Matteo Gambaro. In the Top categories numerous young and strong athletes showed a very high level and the event was a great success. The finals were very exciting with spectacular boulders whit only one top out and a clear winner! http://www.blogside.it http://www.postodiblocco.com While waiting for the weather to improve so we can return to the projects outdoor we stay in the gym...  

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  5. A great start of the year

    From the very 1st of january I had 25 days to get as ready as possible to participate in the first competition of the year! The competition was located in Copenhagen. It was the first round of a new concept called The Annual Cup, which is a new addition to the line of danish bouldering cups. With only 25 days to get fit I had to train every single day. Surprisingly, to myself as well as to others I must imagine, the get-fit-in-20-days project seemed to work! My guess is that after a relaxed holiday over Christmas, my body must have been completely recovered from any kind of overloading. Plus, I made sure that I ate properly and enough every single day as well, and got all the hours of sleep needed to be able to rest and recover as much as possible over night and therefore be able to train without getting any injuries the following day. On the day of the competition I felt ready to climb. 42 problems had been put up and we all had 5 hours to do as many as possible. At the end of the competition I was bombed, completely out-climbed by myself. It felt very satisfying to know that I had done everything I could in order to get placed as good as possible in the ranking early in the cup. The results came out the following day online and I were very pleased to see my name listed in the 1st place of the now existing and present ranking! All of my effort the previous weeks had payed off. I am very psyched to contest in the following rounds. Hopefully I will continue to be placed as one of the best 13 contestants and make it to the final round in november where it all ends in a big final! Another new addition to many people including myself this year has been the opportunity to support the fight against cancer as climbers. CAC - Climbers Against Cancer is a foundation created by John Ellison. I first met John at the world championships in Austria, Imst in 2011. Back then he did not know that he had cancer. When he a year later was diagnosed he chose not to give in to the disease.

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