Competitions

  1. Summer report

    This was one busy summer for me. I spent most of my days in our gym with the team preparing for the comps, route setting and then going from one world cup to another. The highlight was, of course, world championships in Munich. In my competition years there was also a world championships in 2005and If I look back now, it's so funny how things change. Bouldering was still pretty new to me at that time but I was very ambitious and I was ready to work hard to achieve my goals as a competitor. Now I'm looking at the comps from a different perspective - as a coach and I'm very happy to have a chance to work with such a cool team. Although I missed some time for my climbing this summer, all the work and ups and downs of the season payed off with Jernej Kruder taking a silver medal in Munich. It was a big and well deserved medal for him and for our team!

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  2. My first senior competition

    A few a weeks ago, I participated in my first senior competition, the Nordic championship. Since I turned 16 this year it's my first year I get to compete with the seniors. So for me, this competition was a completely new experience. The contest took place at Klättercentret K2 in Stockholm where I usually train. I signed up just for fun. I would never have dreamt about to fight with the absolute best, but I hoped to reach the final. There was a strong line up for both women and men. I'm glad so many talented girls participated, among them Therese Johansen, Hannah Mitbø, Tina Johansen Hafsaas and moon climber Katrine Vandet Salling.

    I felt rather nervous for the qualification, like a small shit among the others. Since I hadn't been at any senior competition before, I didn't really know how it all worked. Luckily I knew a lot of nice people from Sweden in the isolation I could talk with.

    The qualification did not go as well as I had hoped, I thought I had messed it up. I managed to top 2 out of 5 boulders, and took 4 bonus holds. The last problem ended quite annoying as my time passed when I almost had the top. Very frustrating indeed..! Although I was quite disappointed about my effort, this qualified me for finals in 4rd place, yay! (It would be stupid if I staid disappointed)

    After some food, a nap, and a little walk it was time to head back to isolation later that evening. It was the first time in a competition I had felt no pressure, no nerves and just excitement. I felt a few butterflies here and there but nothing much. The nervosity came all over m

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  3. Dominion Riverrock

    Two months ago, I scrambled to learn enough genetics to let me scrape by on the final, cram my dorm room into four cardboard boxes, move all the cardboard boxes out of the room, and tie up all the loose ends associated with finishing up one's first year of college. The next day, I scrambled to gather all my clothes and climbing gear, hitch a ride to Denver International Airport, and get through not one, but two thorough security checks and an extremely bitchy security guy (generally what happens when you put a weight vest in your carry-on luggage). Yet through all the chaos, I wasn't even flying home. I was flying in to Newark Airport in New Jersey, where we'd spend a night at our friend Anna's house, then make the three-hour drive (which ended up being a six-hour drive due to traffic) to Richmond, Virginia, for the one and only RIVERROCK FESTIVAL and Boulder Bash comp! Which just so happens to be one of if not the most innovative and mainstream comp around. [caption id="attachment_7099" align="alignnone" width="300"] Photo: Jesse Gagnon[/caption] Not to mention the badass walls. Badass walls that require a lot of endurance. I mean, you are roof-climbing continuously for 30 (left wall) and 40 feet (right wall) . Being a boulderer, I never actually had endurance. Sure, I was able to lead somewhat difficult routes, but that was only because I was able to climb them fast enough where I didn't have time to get tired. So signing up for an event like Riverrock was not something I took lightly. This was not just another competition, where I could bullshit my way through to Finals. If I was going to do this, I was going to do it the right way. By that, of course, I mean two solid months of progressive endurance training.

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  4. Climbing, coaching and route setting

    The time goes by so quickly. I realized I haven’t been on a climbing trip for more than half a year. Not cool! I work as a climbing coach, and lately, this has taken all of my time. May and June are always crazy and I can’t wait for summer to come. Even if it’s super hot it will be more calm for sure.

    My favourite place to climb right now (I mean a place that I can go to for one day) is Trnovo by the So?a river. It’s an amazing ambient with a lot of potential. You can climb new problems every day, so much to do and so much waiting to be found, cleaned and climbed. So when I have a day off and the weather is good I go there to climb projects from last year or just search for new ones.

    Beside working as a climbing coach I also did some route setting. This was what I wanted to do for a long time and this year I got an opportunity to set boulder problems for the youth national team training sessions and a national competition. It’s hard work but so creative and fun.

    Two weeks ago we had a World Cup bouldering competition in Slovenia. I didn't compete for the first time. I decided so one year ago and I didn't change my mind since then. But it was an interesting experience anyway. The route setters invited me to come to try some problems for the comp. Of course I found them hard to climb, but it was cool to hang out with Jacky Godoffe, who was the chief route setter, and the rest of the team who were all Slovenian climbers. After we tried everything that was on the wall at the time, Jackie thanked me for my skin that I left on the brand new holds (real skin eaters). He’s a real legend and still unbelievably strong. On the weekend it was even more interesting to watch the competition, because I knew what the climbers were supposed to do and I knew how bad the holds really are.

    Now it’s time to work a bit more and then at the end of the summer I plan to go on a trip. I think it’s about time to go somewhere!

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  5. Competition month

    April has been a really busy month for me - but in a good way! I’ve contested in different national and international competitions in all but one weekend of this month. All competitions were bouldering comps.   On the 6th of April I brought my strongest junior girls near Copenhagen to a city called Lyngby to contest in this year’s first round of the danish bouldering competition called Bloc Comp. The competition consisted of a qualifying round and of course the finals. With twelve out of thirteen possible tops, most of them flashes, I was in the lead position for the finals. On the first problem in the final round I made a huge mistake. Not just one of the sloppiness alike “oh why did I just crimp that hold when it's much better as a pinch?” climbing related or technical mistakes, but one of those big, big fails that one simply can’t do during a bouldering final. Completely distracted by whatever, I went out to the first problem in the final. I placed both hands around the edge that consisted the start position, looked down on my feet and on the gigantic foothold. But this is not where I started to fail. Because even though the fail itself was enacted over only a few seconds, it all began inside my head minutes before the actual act. Inexplicably, I had convinced myself that somehow it was a great idea to imagine all of the things I had previously done wrong while competing, in order to prevent myself from repeating them. Worst. Idea. Ever. My last thought before I placed my right foot instead of my left on the start foothold was: “How typical it would be if I slipped off this foothold while changing my feet.” And guess what happened. In less than two seconds I had ruined my flash attempt because I slipped while changing feet. I hadn’t even done a single move?! However, I did the problem easily in my second attempt and went back to the isolation room, blushing with shame, knowing that I was no longer leading the competition. But instead of lett

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