Brett and Sophie from climbing vlog channel Climbing Nomads met up with Ben Moon at the School Room, Sheffield, to talk about his lifelong love of climbing. From the moment he first discovered rock to his groundbreaking first ascents, like Statement of Youth (8A), Ben shares his most prominent climbing memories, and current projects.
In November 2019, Moon Climbing athlete Buster Martin claimed the seventh ascent of Chris Sharma’s 9a+ sport route in Margalef, First Ley. Buster’s first meeting with the route came earlier in the year whilst on the hunt for a new sport project. He returned to the climb in April, then again in October before completing the ascent on 17 November.
On the 30th anniversary of his ascent of Agincourt, the first 8C rock climb in France, Ben Moon embarks on a trip down memory lane to once again visit the place that played such an important role in the history of sport climbing. Watch the short film documenting this journey.
The Swedish summer was long and warm and made the climbing condition terrible. After a 2 week long trip to Ceuse I quickly realized I had to give up my dreams on Swedish granite. Instead I decided to get insanely strong for whatever outdoor project that might come up in the future. I turned into a gym rat. I got obsessed with how much weight I could add on my pull-ups and how far I could pull between the campus rungs. When autumn came I barely took notice, the summer had been feeling endless. I had created a new comfort zone and that was the climbing gym.
By the end of this summer I got a message from Andreas Andersson who is currently developing a new topo for the areas around Stockholm. He gave me the offer of trying his freshly bolted project on a crag called Bjurviksberget. I felt extremely honored. But the fact that it was a slab made me terrified, how could I apply my summer-training on such a route? Could I even stand on my feet..?
Andreas made me realise climbing isn't all about big biceps...
I headed out anyway and I finally got to breathe some fresh air again. I guess Andreas pulled me out of my indoor comfort zone and bad habits, and made me realise climbing isn't all about big biceps.
At first I got scared by the climb and its angle since I usually climb steeper routes, but challenges like this is what I like about climbing. On my second attempt I sent it, even though I had to eliminate one of the wet key holds. I had done my first FA and it was a slab. It's hard for me to give any indication about the grade since the climb was far from the style I usually climb, but I can estimate it to be somewhere about 7c...ish. But in this case i simply couldn't care less. I had challenged my comfort zone and it was thrilling.
Overtraining Syndrome (OTS) is actually a clinical syndrome and, as you can imagine, is common in athletes. Learn about the different types of overtraining, the symptoms, and how to prevent it.