Climbing

  1. VIDEO: Buster Martin climbs First Ley 9a+

    VIDEO: Buster Martin climbs First Ley 9a+

    In November 2019, Moon Climbing athlete Buster Martin claimed the seventh ascent of Chris Sharma’s 9a+ sport route in Margalef, First Ley. Buster’s first meeting with the route came earlier in the year whilst on the hunt for a new sport project. He returned to the climb in April, then again in October before completing the ascent on 17 November.

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  2. VIDEO: Return to Agincourt

    VIDEO: Return to Agincourt

    On the 30th anniversary of his ascent of Agincourt, the first 8C rock climb in France, Ben Moon embarks on a trip down memory lane to once again visit the place that played such an important role in the history of sport climbing. Watch the short film documenting this journey.

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  3. Kajsa Rosen Climbs First Ascent in Stockholm

    Kajsa Rosen Climbs First Ascent in Stockholm

    The Swedish summer was long and warm and made the climbing condition terrible. After a 2 week long trip to Ceuse I quickly realized I had to give up my dreams on Swedish granite. Instead I decided to get insanely strong for whatever outdoor project that might come up in the future. I turned into a gym rat. I got obsessed with how much weight I could add on my pull-ups and how far I could pull between the campus rungs. When autumn came I barely took notice, the summer had been feeling endless. I had created a new comfort zone and that was the climbing gym.

    By the end of this summer I got a message from Andreas Andersson who is currently developing a new topo for the areas around Stockholm. He gave me the offer of trying his freshly bolted project on a crag called Bjurviksberget. I felt extremely honored. But the fact that it was a slab made me terrified, how could I apply my summer-training on such a route? Could I even stand on my feet..?

    Andreas made me realise climbing isn't all about big biceps...

    I headed out anyway and I finally got to breathe some fresh air again. I guess Andreas pulled me out of my indoor comfort zone and bad habits, and made me realise climbing isn't all about big biceps.

    At first I got scared by the climb and its angle since I usually climb steeper routes, but challenges like this is what I like about climbing. On my second attempt I sent it, even though I had to eliminate one of the wet key holds. I had done my first FA and it was a slab. It's hard for me to give any indication about the grade since the climb was far from the style I usually climb, but I can estimate it to be somewhere about 7c...ish. But in this case i simply couldn't care less. I had challenged my comfort zone and it was thrilling.

    I

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  4. Are You Overtraining?

    Are You Overtraining?

    Overtraining Syndrome (OTS) is actually a clinical syndrome and, as you can imagine, is common in athletes. Learn about the different types of overtraining, the symptoms, and how to prevent it.

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  5. On Damaging Rock - by Ben Moon

    On Damaging Rock - by Ben Moon

    I remember when North East climber and photographer, Mark Savage, sent me a photo of the damage done to the classic Bowden problem 'Vienna'. The damage is obviously due to it's popularity and 'Vienna' is certainly not unique in this respect.

    There will be classic problems all over the country which are sadly changing for the worst. One of the causes of this damage is from excessive brushing to remove excess chalk so as to improve the grip between fingers and rock. We all do it and it’s almost become a ritual, part of the mental process of preparing for a hard send. However it’'s worth questioning how effective this process is, is it worth the damage it causes and are there better alternatives for improving the friction and therefore your chances of success?

    I have done plenty of brushing in my time and my company even sells brushes, but in most cases I don’'t actually believe it does help to improve the friction. The only cases where it might help, are where the hold obviously hasn’'t been brushed for a long time and is really caked in chalk. In my experience, this is not often the case and holds generally are pretty clean. If the hold is relatively clean, and by clean, I don’'t mean free of chalk, I just mean free of large particles of chalk or layers of chalk then brushing is unlikely to provide any advantage other than a psychological one.

    I certainly don’'t see how it will dry out the hold and remove moisture, which is really what you want. Therefore in most cases, I would say brushing is pretty much a waste of time and the benefit will be far outweighed by the long term damage you will do to the rock. Even if you are dealing with hard rock types which aren’'t easily damaged, at the very least the hold will become polished over time. You can see polished holds everywhere and although I am not saying that brushing is the cause of this polish, it'’s certainly a contributing factor and should be avoided where p

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