Climbing Diary

  1. On our way home

    Well that's it folks. Right now, Ben and I are sat at Chicago airport waiting for our flight back to the UK. Both Ben P and I have had a great time climbing in Hueco and will definately be coming back. I really wanted to stay on for an extra 10 days but when it came down to it the airline told me my ticket wouldn't allow it. Maybe it's for the best. Both my skin and body feels pretty beat up and I think I need a week off to fully recharge. I think I have done a fair bit of climbing over the past month and have only had 2 rest days in a row once and that was more than 2 weeks ago.

    I hardly climbed yesterday because I was just too tired and knowing I was going home the next day kind of killed my motivation. I did another 4 star classic the day before "The Power of Landjager" and tried my hardest to do another "Two Days with Jean" but just didn't have the energy. Oh well, another one to go back for.

    It's been a real luxury climbing at Hueco and I have really enjoyed going out each day and climbing another bunch of 3 or 4 star problems for the first time. It would have been nice to have climbed something properly hard but these problems will still be here for me when I return. It has also been great seeing and climbing with old friends and making new ones. Spending time with Chris and Dave was also a really treat and seeing them climb very inspiring.

    So it's back to the England and hopefully some cold dry days on the grit...

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  2. Dai Koyamda make 7th Ascent of Action Direct

    Well if you have just read Rich's report below you will know that the Japenese climber Dai was pretty close to repeating Action Directe. Well now he has!

    It's very funny because I just called Rich about a half hour ago and he answered the phone in a whisper and told me that Dai had just set off on his redpoint attempt! Neither Rich nor I said anything for a few seconds then Rich goes 'He's just arrived at the last move, he's done it'!. Then I just heard loads of screaming from Dai coming down the phone. Dai just got the 7th ascent.

    2 repeats in a week. 7 in total. Sounds like it's just become a trade route! Very interesting to hear Rich say it's only 11 moves long. This is quite a bit shorter that a many boulder problems and certainly way less moves than the sequence that Wolfgang and I used.

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