bouldering

  1. Deja Vu

    After a quick 15 hour flight from Salt Lake City-Chicago-Dublin and finally Paris, the once far away magical forest of Fontainebleau was within my grasp. I love returning to an area 10 years later for its as if I had never been, everything fresh and new but still so familiar, a bit of deja vu was clearly present. We snatched up our spiffy French car and hit the road, after sussing out our living sitiuation with a good friend the time had come to attack the precious boulders. Unfortunately the ever present moisture and dew had devoured the boulders and never seemed to evaporate. Climbing in Fontainebleau is by far one of the most technical styles of rock in the world, its also extremely temperature dependent. The conditions were completely horrible, and even the thought of projecting anything above the warmup grade was out of the question. It was fun for a day or two but after 3 weeks of the continuous let down, my mind began to go a little cuckoo. Nearing the end of our France adventure, in hopes of being in the best shape ever and ready to give the full on Utahn invasion of Great Britian, the exact opposite was at hand, too much delicious pastries, wine and cheese mixed with no climbing, made for some ruff times ahead.

    (Balance 7c+)

    With the dreams of Fontainebleau behind us it was time to venture onto the next chapter. England! Sheffield!

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  2. Old projects, new projects

    When I came back from The States I wasn't happy to be home but my motivation for climbing was high and I was in some sort of a sending mood. This way I did one of my old projects Rože zla (Les Fleurs du Mal), 7C+. I was just wandering if the holds still felt so bad and before I realized how terribly small and painful those crimps are, I was on top of it. Such a cool moment to do something unexpectedly. It's a ground up climb, so I stuck that crux move for the first time ever and then it was just a matter of staying calm to top it out.  

      For me, it's harder to try really hard and fight when I climb on some local spots, because in the back of my mind is always the thought that I can come back to it whenever I want to, so there is no pressure or moment like ''it's now or never''. Now, I try to set my mind to it and think that I want to do it now and not one day. Staying home means limestone bouldering for me, which is not my favourite thing. There are of course some exceptions and some lines that are pretty awesome, but in general it comes to pulling on very small crimps. Luckily, Maltatal is not very far away and I went there a couple of times this fall. It's one of my favourite places and I really feel good there. It's where I first started bouldering more seriously. It's where I did my first 7C and later my first 8A+. The rock is great and the harder you climb the better it gets. It's definitely a place to have a project and I didn't have one for a while. We stopped by the Alligator the other day, because Gasper wanted to try it, so I decided to try the left exit, Loskot's classic problem Wrestling with an Alligator, 8B, just for fun. It went
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  3. Summer is gone

    Summer as always went by quickly, I think that the human beings should be on holidays 350 days a year… After finishing the maintenance works in the gym, on August 9 my girlfriend and I decided to leave for a 10 days tour between Val Daone and Zillertal. First stop in Val Daone, an enchanting valley beneath the Adamello, well known for its ice falls. In recent years a large group of climbers from Trento and Brescia is enhancing it with granite blocks which have nothing to envy to the Ticino ones. After one day running, I decided to try a block that I already spotted on Internet, a very beautiful top furrowed by very good crimps released by Gabriele Moroni. I spent half a day searching for the best sequence for hands and feet, but after the first laps from the bottom I realized that I spent too much energy in the study of movements and I decided to come back more rested the day after. Next morning I waked up painfully, because in the last few days I did not train and I touched no grip. I tried to warm up very quietly on the blocks and put my engine at the right speed, in order to let my lactic acid pains disappear. It was a good choice because after 45 minutes training on the blocks between 6B and 6C, my pains seem to fade and my body have fine sensations. I put myself under the block, I cleaned the grips and made two useless laps during which my foot slipped on the last movements…I got angry a lot. I nervously lighted up another cigarette…then I received a phone call by a colleague, I spent ten minutes on the phone thanks to which I probably forgot what happened shortly before. I wore my shoes, I placed myself at the starting point and I started: I somehow pulled out the tension and anger and I climbed flowing as it happened a very few times in my life. I reached the top and I laughed to myself: it also has been. [caption id="attachment_7550" align="aligncenter" width="640" caption="Photo by Massimo Ga
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  4. My Colorado adventure (part 2)

    I left Colorado with some mixed emotions. I love it there. The beautiful nature, the granite boulders, the wildlife, the fresh air. It’s amazing. But on the other hand, I haven’t seen that much rain in a while. Not even in Font. Getting rained out on the hike out, endless waiting under some overhang for the shower or thunderstorm to be over, hail, rain, blue sky, rainbow, more rain. This is what they call here ‘’the true Colorado experience’’. Luckily, the rocks dry very quickly.

    With the weather forecast telling me everyday that there is about 50% chance of rain or possible thunderstorms, I didn't really plan my climbing days or rest days. I climbed whenever it was possible on whatever was most likely to be dry. No real projects, just climbing a lot when it was good. We had a few really amazing days. Rocky Mountain, Mt. Evans, Lincoln Lake and Wild Basin. There’s so much to do and once you get used to the high altitude and long hikes you get to enjoy the beautiful scenery in the mountains and good quality granite.

    In Lincoln Lake, my favourite place, I did some really cool problems like Tangerine Man, Behind the 8 Ball and Chalk on Rock (all V8). My favourite is definitely Tangerine man, an amazing, long and a pretty scary thing I did on one of the best days we had. With my boyfriend Gasper and a strong girl team (me, Jackie Hueftle, Alex Johnson and Angie Payne) we had a great day out, climbing many many problems.

    In the Rockies I did both Tommy’s aretes (the V7 and the V9), Potato Chip, a crimpy V7 and some more cool things. In Mt. Evans I didn't handle the pressure ‘’do it before the rain’’ very successfully and I left that place with many things undone. I'm really happy I took my Moon crash pad with me on the plane. The innovative “reverse fold” system and the foam wrapped in nylon made my rainy hikes much more pleasant.

    This is how it was for 3 weeks and then the flood came. A real natural disas

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  5. American Ninja What!!

    After topping off the amazing winter and spring season of climbing with the first ascent of Force of Nature(V14) I found myself in the hottest part of Utah and gearing up for a season of work here in Zion, Utah. Unmotivated by the nuclear temperatures, training for climbing was out of the question. So what else do we do? I heard word from my good friend Noah Kaufman that he got accepted onto a TV show know as American Ninja Warrior, I became intrigued and in the last minute on the last day I threw together a submission video. Unfortunately I was too late and the casting crew informed me that my region was full and they had already picked their competitors for the year. At the moment I could care less about being on the show, I just really wanted to test my skills on the obstacle's. This really bummed me out, so I further researched getting into the competition and found out there is one last chance. It involved getting into whats called a walk-on-line. We packed our bags and drove to Denver to get in line, despite knowing that we had very little if not any chance of getting picked. I decided to make myself stand out somehow and it just so happens I had a Jesus costume laying around. 5 days of sleep deprivation and frying in the direct sun left us both exhausted. Regardless, we stayed strong to the line and kept our sites on the main goal of getting chosen to have a crack at what looked like the most exciting obstacle course in the world! With the walk-on-line significantly growing in numbers reaching nearly 200 by the last day(Laura being the only female) I decided it was time to bust out the costume and get ready to impress the casting crew. It was rumored that they would be coming within the hour to choose

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