Posted: December 07, 2015
Another video of the red sandstone nestled between the pine trees of Albarracin. Problems featured - Cosmos 8A El Varano 7C Palplant 7B+ Pinturas Buldestres 8A Zarzamora 7C Zombie Nation 8A Brainstorm 7B Esperanza 8A+ Gigantic 7C+
Posted: November 16, 2015
The LED moon boards are appearing all over the world, and we always love to hear about your builds, we got sent this email by our LED guru Chad, from Martin over in Guernsey. It looks like they had a brilliant time updating their moon board to the new LED system, it sure looked like thirsty work Hey Chad, Thanks again for your help. I meant to get back to you sooner to let you know how it went, just in case you were interested! I actually finished a few weeks ago, and it's made the moon board so much more fun. So, f**k me, that was a LOT of cutting, stripping, tinning and soldering of wires! Over a long weekend we had a lot of 3am/4am finishes and we consumed a mammoth amount of beer. I was lucky to rope in a couple of other guys or I might have gone insane! When I told one of them we could have bought the LED's from you (near the end), he nearly broke into tears, which frankly made it all worthwhile! Below are a few pictures of the build, and importantly, the finished product. I'm pretty stoked with how it turned out. [gallery link="file" ids="18014,18015,18016,18017,18018,18019,18020,18021"] Thanks again for publishing what you did, and the help! All the best, Martin p.s. On the controls you'll see I changed the message; "Tu Futu" in Guernsey-French means "You're F*cked", which is the Guernsey climbing club's loving encouragement equivalent of "come on buddy!" I'm the hairy one
Posted: November 09, 2015
By Ivan Lisica Just got back from a huge bolting meeting at virgin canyon of river ?ikola, one hour away from my hometown. The potential of this place is overwhelming and I question myself how it is possible that I have never heard about this place till recently. Jerry Moffat wrote in Revelations that in a certain period his rest days were reserved for soloing. My free days are often spent in the exploration of new areas and despite living like this for almost two decades it is still possible to find surprises like ?ikola almost at my doorstep. This fact is unbelieveable but I enjoy it. Trying to imagine that all this endless rock is known, all crags bolted, all boulders brushed and me as just a guidebook user sounds impossible. Once you feel the excitement of facing the unknown terrain, creativity of setting the new lines and process of doing first ascents there is no way back. It becomes pure addiction and hardly anything can fulfill you more than this. Big bolting events are getting more and more often in this part of Europe. The potential of this region was never questionable so I knew it was a matter of time before they start. These events are impressive because a huge work can be done in just a days and massive areas are opened almost instantly. All day long on ?ikola we had a lot of fun as a crew and motivated each other to work hard like there´s no tommorow. If these events would continue for a decade or so, I can imagine that we could even run out of virgin rock which sounds pretty terrifying. On the other hand since bolting events are usually about developing 'the best' areas I hope it will always be possible to find some small untouched sectors as a fresh dose of new terrain for addicted locals.
Posted: October 28, 2015
Day 1: First day of the 15/16 Font season. Conditions are far from ideal, but we are in the forest and we can climb. With Les Étoiles Filantes (8a) I did my 96th 8th degree boulder, only 4 to go!!
Day 2: It is still a bit too warm for me to send this beast (The Island), but I am not complaining with this kind of weather in October. And I reached a new highpoint.
Day 3: Almost three years ago I tried the Island (8b+) for the first time. Such an intense problem and maybe the best compression boulder in the world. Even I only have been there for 6 or 7 days, it has been on my mind since. Yesterday it went down, but this isn´t the end. The Big Island (8c) always has been the main goal. It is time to go BIG! Earlier that day I did le Mandarin (8a), a tricky and funky problem you rarely see outside.
Posted: October 19, 2015
Having not been in the Grampians for months, due to work and a mind boggling trip to rocklands, I was frothing to get back to some of my projects. Weather looked primo and I was feeling refreshed, so we decided to head to an old crag that I hadn't visited in years. Having been ravaged by fire a couple of years ago, this area has seen some intense regrowth, which makes for an interesting walk in, 8 foot high weeds are not the best friend of a budding boulderer. But, we made it to the crag nonetheless. It was still as good as I remember. We ran around and repeated some of the primo lines, including the proud highway, which I did the FA of almost 10 years ago. It is still one of the best lines I have ever been on and I enjoyed every second of it, 3 times... Next up was an old project that I had almost forgotten about, there had been one move that had rebuffed me repeatedly. However, with fresh eyes and plenty of psych, I found a new sequence and managed to send this cool roof problem pretty quickly. Time lapse 7c was the result... Now all I need is to get through the next week so I can head back there again... Cant wait!! Simon Proud highway Time lapse This is a classic, but has no name...