Climbing

  1. My First Bolting Experience by Sandra Lisica

    My First Bolting Experience by Sandra Lisica

    Earlier this year I bolted my first route on a perfect Trogir limestone. It was truly a fulfilling experience to "give life“ to an untouched line, virgin rock. In many occasions, people around me were bolting, however, my duty was mostly belaying or brushing. But, this time I was able to bolt a route and it was so much fun, though hard work at the same time. One thing I can say for sure, like in anything I guess, bolting one route does not make you an expert. You get to know the basics, but only years of experience in different lines and areas can make you a true master. After this day, I admire a lot more climbers who are using their energy and time to discover and open new lines for the whole climbing community. It is a gift which should not be forgotten or taken for granted. The best that we can do as a favour, is to help maintain these lines in the best possible condition, or in other words, to keep them clean and safe for everyone. Let´s all take it upon ourselves to take care and be responsible for these lines, as they belong to all of us. 

    This new line in Trogir became Pink Panther (7c), a crimpy 20m line and truly a perfect piece of rock. 

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  2. Ben Moon Climbs 4th Ascent of Rainshadow (9a)

    Yesterday I realised the dream I had of climbing Steve McClure’s classic 9a route Rainshadow. Here's the story of what led me to begin redpointing the route that could possibly be the hardest route I've ever climbed...

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  3. Death is as Real as Climbing

    A tribute to some lost legends Most who go out and play around on cliffs, climbing with or without a rope, look at climbing as a leisure activity or hobby. Some take it seriously and train in a gym, and some attempt to make some kind of bohemian living out of it. Or at least get sponsors, grants and savings to make that dream trip possible. I have to say; in some way I assume I will always return home safely - to a cup of tea and the voice of my eight year old son. But if I try to be honest with myself, I know that such an assumption is far from reality. What makes climbing such a big part of many climbers’ lives is the unique way it manages to consume and captivate us. It is beyond sense and sensibility and yet still we do it and without the slightest hesitation. It is hard to explain what the feeling is like when you are captivated by a route, mountain or line. It is even harder to justify taking such a huge risk as a parent: still I do it and love it. In a rational world its impossible to justify and can only be explained as an act of total egoism performed by narcissistic pricks! Still, I like to think that it is possible to climb hard and yet responsibly. Accidents happen. There is, in my opinion, an absolute correlation between time and exposure. The longer you stay on an exposed route or mountain the greater risk you are taking. On the other hand, to be fast you need to go light and that also carries its own risks. I however, prefer to go light and try and avoid spending too much time on the mountain. In the past weeks some true legends and huge sources of inspiration have left us. I think its calls for reflection as well as for a few words on their what they contribution to climbing and alpinism. For me, the late Athol Whimp was not just a hero. He was the definition of what I think alpinism and climbing is all about. The way Whimp approach his climbing was pure, futuristic and with no fuss. Yet he never opted for the easy way up. Athol Whimp formed

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