Just a few days ago Markus Bock climbed a new 8c+ "Demonstrating My Style" in his home area the Frankenjura. He had this to say about it.
"Climbed yesterday a 45 move project. first part is an 8b+ route which was
opened by myself 3 years before, then some cross moves to the right and then
a 7c+ boulder through a 60 degree overhang at the end. The 40th moves is the
hardest if you come from the ground: Long move from a sloper to a shit
Sloper and rockover.
Impressive line through an arch"
7c+ boulder after an 8b+ route? Sounds easy to me!
I was over in the Frankenjura about 10 days ago and although it was mainly for work I did manage a couple of days climbing and even put a rope and harness on which was really good fun. I haven't climbed in the Frankenjura since about '94 and I had kind of forgotten how good the routes are over there. The rock is perfect and there are just so many classic climbs which really suit a climber who lacks endurance! On top of that the beer is probably the best in the world and so cheap!
If you haven't already been there then get yourself out there. Sept/Oct is probably the best time to visit.
Rich Simpson is heading back out there about now for another assault on Action Direct so good luck Rich.
10 / 12 / 2024