I just flew into the states for a 4 week climbing trip at Hueco Tanks which is a place I have wanted to visit for a long long time. I am not sure why it has taken me so long to get here. I am here with Ben Pritchard and staying with a load of climbers at a big 5 bedroom house in El Paso. Was planning to break myself in gently and get over the travelling but ended up hooking up with my friend Boone Speed who was down here with Chris Sharma. Ended up climbing for 3 straight days from morning till dusk and feel totally worked. I had been training quite a bit back in England but I am not sure that any indoor training can prepare you for 5 hours a day bouldering outside. We should certainly be fit by the end of the trip. At least either fit or injured!

Looks like there are loads and loads of cool problems to do here. The whole access situation is a bit of a pain but I am sure it will be worth the hassle. So far we have only climbed on North Mountain where you don't need guides although you do need to book space in the park. It seems like there has been a lot of development of North Mountain since the access problems and you could probably spend your whole time on North Mountain and never even bother with the guided parts.

Fred Nicole has just climbed a long standing project of his left of the classic Diaphanous Sea. This looks very good and very very hard indeeed although slightly spoilt by having the smallest and sharpest crimp you have ever seen. I can't imagine getting more than a few of tries on it before splitting you finger. I think I might just have to sit back and watch Chris and Dave Graham (whole rolled in here at 4 last night) battle with this. I think Fred thought it was the hardest problem he had ever done.