Dave made a couple more repeats the other day. He repeated Techo de los tres B which was a roof problem climbed by Fred Nicole on North Mountain on the Nacho Man boulder. I think it was originally graded V15 or 8c but both Dave and Matt Wilder who has also tried it and is close to doing it think V14 or 8b+ is probably more accurate. I have looked at it but not tried it so couldn't comment on this. I didn't think it looked that inspiring although both Dave and Matt say it climbs good. Dave also repeated a problem called Diabolic that Chris Sharma did when he was down here a couple of weeks ago. It's just off to the right of the path that leads up to Bleeding Brothers. I tried this with Chris and Dave the day I did Diaphanous Sea. It's a short overhanging wall with big moves between slopey layaways and small pinches. I think it really suited Chris and he made short work of it. As usual Chris didn't comment on the grade but I would say it must be around the V13 or 8b mark. On Sunday a whole load of us took a commercial tour to the East Spur again. I think this is my favourite area. I did The French Tickler and Swiss Crisp Mix. The French tickler is a Marc Le Menestral problem from the early 90's and a total classic. Then at the end of the day I had a few tries on The Full Monty. I felt good and should have done it except Mike Call was standing right behind me filming for the final dyno and when I swung off I hit him so had to drop off. We went back yesterday and I got it 1st try. It seems quite a bit harder than the other 12s I have done. Yesterday I also had a few tries on Nagual V13/14 which is a beautiful line up a steep wall on tiny crimps. I flashed through the crux but then couldn't get back up there again so just worked the finish. Another one to go back for!

Back to Blog
Share this post