During the last month I have train my body and my mind for two important competitions, the junior Italian Cup, and the Teva Outdoor Games (also the Italian Cup). Both these competitions were important because the best climbers were then selected for the international competitions.
In the junior Italian Cup this year was much more difficult to get on the podium in my category because there were very strong climbers who have already participated in World Cup comps, but was also very important to me because I could really give the best of myself.
In Lead comp, I came seventh. In the bouldering comp I thought I’d be more competitive, but the result was not like what I expected, I finished tenth! For the first time I tried the Speed for curiosity, and unexpectedly I did a good time to enter in the semifinals but for me this specialty is just for fun! Two weeks after the junior Italian Cup there was the Teva Outdoor Game is a classic competition that is organized every year but I haven’t taken part previously because I was focused on the Italian Cup. It is usually organized the day after the Teva. Many climbers take part in that comp in fact the comp lasted much! The Bouldering was very hard, with the strongest athletes unable to solve the last two boulders. After all I had so much fun, I arrived thirteenth.
After participating in these two races I decided to go rock climbing with Niccolò Ceria, my brother and another friend!
We decided to go to Magic Wood, perhaps one of the best places during the summer months. In my opinion Magic Wood remains one of my favorite places, in fact I was very motivated to go there.
The conditions were really perfect the first day, and I decided to try one of the boulders that inspired me a lot called Hohenrausch, a perfect 7b/+ boulder, maybe one of the most beautiful boulder I have ever done. After climbing Hohenrausch, I decided to try a nice continuation of the boulder called Hohenzone 7c the start is the same like Hohenrausch but in the middle of the boulder you must to go on the right and after a few attempts I did it.
After having climbed on these beautiful boulders we were going to try a boulder called Iron Butterfly, considered one of the best 7b+ in the forest. The boulder is quite long (about 15 movements) in fact the endurance is really important to do it. After a few tries I did the crux of the boulder but I was very pumped, and I fell at the last move before the dyno on the edge! F * * K! After a several minutes of rest I decided to leave for the next attempt and finally I managed to take the good crimp and then the dynamic move to the edge. I felt happy to have climbed this beautiful boulder.
My brother wanted to try a 7c in the high part of the forest and then we headed to the boulder called Fight Club, I felt tired but I still want to climb something in fact I decided to try it, but it was useless! Luckily my brother managed to do it and I was really happy for him.
The second day the conditions was hotter and I had not enough skin to try many projects in fact I decided to try a lot of 7a and 7b like: Enterprise 7a (flash), Stress man 7a (2nd go), Blown Away 7b (Flash), Red Roses 7a(flash).
Arriving back, from Magic Wood we learned that the Society of Turin was organizing a contest of rock boulders in Champorcher Valley. Many climbers went there because Champorcher is a new area composed of beautiful boulders, The climbers could decided to do the competition, or climb freely on the new boulders. I decided to do the competition. The comp is composed of 4 boulders each boulder was worth 100 euros, the value of each block was divided by the number of climbers who could do it. I, Gabriele Moroni, Stefano Ghisolfi and Leonardo Gontero we were able to solve all 4 boulders. It was a very stimulating experience trying new boulders likes this, and it was fun to exchange opinions on how to solve each problem. The first boulder was a 7a+, the second a 7c, third and a fourth a 7c+ and a 7b, took me about 2 / 3 hours to be able to climb all the problem.
Now it's time to do some climbing rope .... I was thinking to going to Ceuse 2 weeks with friends... not bad! ;).....Veeengaaaaaaaa!