The Winter season is over and now I focused my time on sport climbing, in these months I visited some nice crags like:
St LEGER and MALAUCENE (France)
I decided to go to this new crag for me because a friend of mine bolted and opened a new route called THE JOKER graded 8a and advised me to try it.
My brother made ??the first try to understand the right holds sequence and he explained me the moves, so I decided to do a strong flash go but I failed it because I fell on the last move of the crux, I was happy anyway for my performance and I focused my mind immediately for the second attempt, after a good rest I climbed really well, without mistakes completing the route, and making the second ascent. I used a different beta than Andrea Perna( The Joker's bolter) and I feel it a bit easier, but dont care! Congrats to Andrea to have opened this great line.
After the joker I still had the desire to climb again in fact I tried a nice connection of some routes called La Magia di Gargagnocca graded 8a and in two goes I completed also this nice endurance route.
The next week end I came back to Frachiamo to do La Magia di Gargagnocca mix 8a+ it consist to add from the previous line( La Magia di Gargagnocca) another 7b to do 50 moves long route and to finish the day I onsighted Vietato Banfare a great 7b+ crack.
The first week end of April we went to Claro with my friends to climb on a percfect granite,very similar at the rock of Cresciano
It was like an adventure because we went down there without a giudebook but we had just some photos taken on 8a.nu and after a fast warm up on very beautiful 6a and 6c we went to try an amazing line called Variante Poetic Face 8a, it is one of the best routes ever in this style of climbing and type of rock.It is composed of a bouldery sequence in the first part with some dyno moves and then a great technical tipping to reach the anchor, SUPER FUNNY! I sent it on my third try.1
To finish the day I tried with my bro another 8a called Black Brother and I had the right motivation to Flash it! :D I was enough satisfied but the quality of rock is not great like the others.
-Four days of holiday were starting and the forecast promise so good just the April 25 and we left to Albenga on a cliff called Cineplex
During the warm up I felt quite tired and weak instead the day finished qiute well, I was able to get some really cool endurance routes like:
Daunbailò 7a O.S.
Brubaker 7b Flash
Blu in the face 7b+ Flash
La Polizzia sincazza 7b+ O.S.
Citizane Kane 7c+ Flash
It was one of the few days that I haven't had to retry any routes again.
St LEGER and MALAUCENE:
So many months have passed when I did the last climbing trip in fact my family and I decided to spent some days in Provence to climb in St Leger but the conditions were not the best because a lot rainy days were covered this part of France.
The firts day I visited St Leger but all the routes were completely wet so we moved to a new crag for us called Malaucène, 30 minutes from St Leger.
The rock quality is super good; we were surrounded by a white limestone with perfect pockets. Climbing above is not so easy, but it's a pleasure.
During my warm up sessions I get these awsome lines:
Mon elle du desir 6b+ O.S.
Pipougne 7a O.S.
Brise le chaines 7a O.S.
Les Mini pousses 7b O.S.
Cherie Jolie 7b O.S.
The last day of permanence in France I was able to climb one of my best 8a+ ever called Le zoulou blanc in the overhanging wall. The first part the moves are powerfulls on qiute good pockets then there is a technical and crimpy boulder in the middle then the route became easier, but with a qiute hard feet-work with one last move on a one finger pocket to get the chain.
The other two days we spent in St Leger precisely in Face Sud sector where the routes are usually dry, the conditions were not the best sometimes it rained, sometimes the sun was shining and it was warm but it was difficult find the right conditions.
I tried Spit Bull 8a+/b I felt it qiute hard in fact I spent two days to figure out the right beta for me but In the fifth go I crush it! :D I was really satisfied for this ascent beause this style of climbing is not my style and is one of the few routes that I did without taking chalk..CRAZY!
Video of this ascents coming soon.
Have a nice climbing to everybody! And I hope that you enjoy it.