I spent the Easter holiday Provencewhere I climbed for two days in Buoux
, in my opinion one of the coolest crag in Europe. I think the style of climbing is unique and I think its a really difficult style of climbing on pockets and holes. The issue is also the distance between the bolts. They are spaced very far from each other so the climbing is not only demanding from a physical point of view but more so mental
Some times a bit too much
Unfortunately the weather was not that good. We climbed in the rain for two days. I decided to try the super famous Reve de Papillon 8a
but with any success as all the pockets were humid and I was quiet tired from travelling.
We decided to changed crag and go to St.Leger
, because the weather was forecasted to be better there.
In St Leger I had one project in mind called Le Mur des Cyclopes 8b/b+
. The route start in at the right hand side of a big cave and it traverse slightly out to the left. In the first part there is a strange boulder problem on tufas, then, endurance climbing for 7 quickdraws and at the end there is another boulder with a one finger pocket and some cool tufas.
On my first attempt I managed to climb all the moves, except the last boulder under the chain. On my second, third and fourth go I fell at the last boulder but I had figured out how to do the crux by now
On my last day I felt in my body that I was tired after five consecutive day of climbing but the following day I had to go back to home.
My mind was really frustrated but I was super motivated to crush the route. I climbed really fast in the first part as its a quiet Pumpy. I got to the Crux with fear of starting off with the wrong method on the last hard move, but fortunately I had the power to hold on to the mono and the bad tufa hold. With the help of some screams I got to the chain. I had completed the route! :D I was SUPERSATISFIED
! But unfortunately the climbing holydays was finished for this time.