Part 1 is available here>>>
In the second part I'm going to talk about the two venues I have visited over on the West side of the North York Moors during the 2011 summer.
I began by visiting the Wainstones with an old friend Andy Jennings. The bouldering at the Wainstones is fairly well established by the Moors standards. Even I had been before. However Lee Robinson (Beta Guides) convinced me to pay another visit to help develop some more lines. Climbing some good new problems richly rewarded me. The best was on 'The Prow' boulder being the right arête climbed strictly on its left hand side. I called this 'Cruel Intentions' as the landing is terrible and graded it 7c. I also managed a nice 7b+ish roof problem just to the right and a cool extension to 'The Prow' at a grade harder and a cool 7c traverse called 'Down Loaf' on the Loaf boulder. A video of most of the stuff is here:
Above: Mike making the first ascent of 'Cruel Intentions' 7c. Photo: Lee Robinson.
Above: Mike climbing 'Stongbow Roof' 7b+. Photo: Lee Robinson
The second area I visited over that way is the confusing Ingleby Incline. I spent two fantastic session exploring the woods and edge. I climbed a lot of new boulder problems cleaning and exploring first with Lee then with Tony Simpson. These visits here coincided with some better conditions towards the end of the summer. So I managed to climb some fantastic looking lines that would be classics anywhere. The first was a direct to 'No Prisoners' and involved a hard dyno from a small undercut pocket to a sloper. I called it 'Prisoner of War' and reckon it's around 7c+
Above: Mike climbing Prisoner of War 7c+. Photo: Lee Robinson.
The second problem was a real Gem and would be at home in Font. It felt like a gift from Lee as it is really hidden and he had spent a long time cleaning off the boulder. It's a fantastic sit start up a great sloppey arete. With balance and power both needed in equal measure for the crux. This really is a classic boulder problem and one I am very pleased to climb it and get the first ascent. It has become known as 'Sleepy Hollow' and is around 7b+ from standing with the sit being 7c+, making for a more complete problem. I managed to get this on video plus some other stuff myself and Tony climbed, which is here:
I also turned up to the Moors Meet at Kay Nest and climbed some suburb problems, again getting some more new stuff done. By far the best one that I did was The Canon. Which climbs a turret of rock that sticks out of the ground. The only way to climb it, is to fridge hug the slopers until a hard lock gets you the good top lip. This seems to have become an 8a and is probably the most powerful climb in the North York Moors to date. There is a vid of the climb here:
Above: Mike dispatching The Canon 8a. Photo: Lee Robinson