The past Sunday (27th November) I made a second ascent of Intensive 8A in Črnotiče, (FA Boštjan Weingerl). I didn't really expect it to happen. It all started in Maltatal, Austria the day before. I changed my beta in my project Petting with an Alligator and came close to sending it which gave me a confidence that I can really do it now.
The next day we went to Črnotiče cave to get some sun after the cold day in Maltatal. It’s our local spot. Like a training gym with endless possibilities of linking things together. All the problems are pretty long in a big overhang. It’s good for training and some lines and moves are pretty awesome. The only thing that is missing are top outs. All the problems end on some obvious jug and then you drop off. That’s too bad but the climbing there is good once you get used to it. Actually, I hated that place at first. I found everything super hard and strange. But this year we spent more days there and I started to like it.
This day I wanted to climb the stand start of Intensive: Less Intensive 7C and I did it in first try that day. I knew the moves of the sit start so I started trying it from the bottom. It's a 12-move problem with constantly hard moves. After climbing slowly and all tensed you need to explode and do a big dynamic move to stick the last slopy jug. This move can really make you crazy. Before, I was trying a lot the stand start and kept falling on the last move. I even managed to fall once I already had it. But that really helped me on later on as I knew those moves really well and when I did the sit start I was able to fight all the way. And the last hold didn't seem so far.
It was one of those days when everything goes just as it should. I felt strong, the conditions were good and in my head I was ready to send. I really missed that in my climbing lately but now it's all changed and I'm psyched about everything that's about to come.
Unfortunately we don't have a video of the climb. We only filmed the 7C and then SD card was full and it all happened too fast. So here is the video of the Less Intensive.
