It was finally time to go to Font for 2 weeks. My expectations were pretty high even though I didn't really train much before and it's been a while since my last trip to Font. I guess I forgot how hard everything feels there in the beginning.
First days were terrible. The weather sucked, all of us caught some kind of a cold and I felt sore all the time from putting to much power into every move. There was nothing else to do but to forget all the expectations and start from zero, being like a blank peace of paper not worrying about the grades and how many days we have left.
We went to a different place every day. In two weeks we visited: Bas Cuvier, Cuvier Rempart, Rocher Canon, Isatis, Cuisiniere, Rocher aux Oiseaux, Rocher Saint- Germain, 95.2, Buthiers and Franchard Hautes-Plaines. I've never been to most of the areas and that was the best part of the trip. Climbing new things everyday! Our approach wasn't really professional. We didn't wait and save some skin for good conditions in the evening. We were just climbing and climbing 'till dark almost everyday.
I did many 7A's and 7A+'s but none can compare to Lady Big Claques in Buthiers. I give it 5 stars. The line is amazing, it climbs ground up and all the holds and the moves are really enjoyable. It's pretty high but not really dangerous. And the top out is luckily easier than usually in Font.
Lady Big Claques 7A+. Photo: Gasper Bratina.
One day we went by Duel. First, you can't imagine using those bad footholds but somehow if you try really really hard to trust your feet you can stand on it. So cool! It's amazing how much Font gives you even if you're an experienced climber.
The only two problems that I really wanted to get back to were: the super classic in Bas Cuvier: Carnage and Noir Desir in Rempart. The plan for the last day was to warm up in Bas and then finish the day in Rempart. It was our last day so we went 'a muerte'! After warming up in Marie Rose I did Carnage in a few tries. That was really cool. We finished our day in Rempart, but Noir Desir will have to wait for our next visit.
Like always, I wish we could stay longer. In the end I got used to the complex climbing. I started to move better and I was able to trust my feet more. The trick is, never give up on the moves that seem impossible at first. It's all in body positions you need to learn. That's why I think Font is the best climbing school you can find. So we'll be back....
