November meant it well with the climbers. A stable high-pressure weather gave us dry boulders and thereby joy. After a long absence from rock, with the exception of a trip to paradise (Fontainebleau), the real season began. As I study in Innsbruck the Zillertal offers a good opportunity for climbing and thanks to my motivated friends I didn't have to wait long.

Above: Juri climbing Buring Knee 7c+

Most of the time my friend Martin came with me to check out some of the crags. One of them is “Klausen Alm” where I did some classics such as “Will to Live“ 7b/c,  “Burning Knee” 7c+ and an exhibit of the ‘always wet problems’ in the valley “Der Narzisst” 8a. Fortunately we both ticked these problems kind of fast and could dedicate ourselves to different challenges. After a short visit to Sundergrund where I tried some hard problems, I turned my focus to Zillergrund Wald. I was especially motivated for a sector called “Neuer Wald” with some really nice boulders. Especially the place around “Hey Dude” offers a lot to play in the close surroundings, like “Madame butterfly” 7c, which would be one of the top lines without the nasty rock in the back.

Above: Juri dispatching Der Narzisst 8a

On the 28th November, a view on the weather forecast shows something strange. Bad weather is coming.... not good. Open projects and not a lot of time just don't fit well together. I pack my stuff in the car and together with my friend Ingo we drive to Zillergrund Wald. Damn, maybe today is the last day. A quick warm up and here we go.

First stop: “Plug 'n' Play” 8a. The Nalle test piece doesn't look really special, but climbs very nice. Last time it played me for a fool, but let's see. First go after the warm up and all of a sudden I'm hanging on the saving crimp... sweet. I didn't expect it that fast. A little later on to the next problem on the list: “Golden roof” 8a. The problem is really morpho, but not in a good way for the smaller ones... Again a small warm up, clean the holds, chalk the hands. Before I realize it I'm at the top. Incredible... I have to admit those days are a blast.

Above: Another crush. This time Juri sends Plun 'n' Play 8a.

Dear weather god, please give us some more dry days in the Zillertal. There is still so much left to do in this marvelous valley and I have to go back to my unfinished business.

Back to Blog
Share this post