Spring is nearly over and the temps are rising. Yes, its summer. Unfortunately I could not make something out of it this time. I don´t know if it´s because of the fast changing conditions this time (the conditions are always the guilty) or it´s just because of my small amount of motivation for creasy and humid boulders in the Jura. That doesn´t mean that Ive not been climbing for ages! I tried a few things - new and old ones but somehow my efforts didn´t pay off this time.
A light at the horizon was my vacation in Font. Font is the best climbing area in the world! Ok, one of the best areas... It´s just the pure satisfaction that you can get while climbing in the forest. There is no difference if you´re super syked or only playing around at the endless potential of moderates. After a few easier problems and outstanding 7c´s Ive sended my highlight of the one week trip Frisson 8A+. A nice crack climb which leads into a powerful ending. I was quite surprised sending it on my second day of trying. Maybe it´s not everything up and away.
Back home Ive got the plan to keep a basically level of fitness and repeated a few problems Ive done before, again. Nearly Ive forgotten how good climbing is in the Frankenjura! Beside the repetitions of repetitions I did a nice highball called Scorpion. A really nice 8A arête with technical and fingery moves. Two new problems I haven´t climbed until this season were Flying Potato and Barny Extension. The first one is a remarkable small ships prow. The rock quality is fantastic and it´s character is burly and technical. After a few tries I stood on top of an enjoyable new problem. Barny extension is something Ive tried once 5 years ago but didn´t went back since then. After repeating Barny again, I started to work out the start sequence, found my solution quickly and finished my unfinished business.
Could be around 8A+!
Since Barny Ive spent my time with school, setting new problems in the gym and giving two workshops at the local climbing center in my hometown Würzburg. It was a nice experience to tell motivated people about my experience in many aspects like training or tactics and watch them how they can improve there climbing with my help. We had nothing like that in the good old times! Yeah, the good old times! I´ve got no idea what´s coming next! The only thing I know: We already booked our tickets for the Rocklands and we can´t wait to go back!
Cheers and maybe see you there! ?Fabi