Finally the Ceuse’s period is coming! ;) In fact I decided to go to Ceuse with my brother and friends to climb as it is my favourite place in the summer. The weather was good, but a little bit cold than other years and it rained four days in two weeks.
Above: The one and only Ceuse.
The first few days it was difficult to continue to climb with the rope above the mental point of view, because this winter I preferred more bouldering. So I decided to start climbing the easier routes, like:
- La Galere 7a ( Flash)
- Gelati Dolomiti 7a (Flash)
- Monzob sur Mer 7b (flash)
- Vas-y Tonton 7a (O.S.)
- Bleu comme L’enfere 6c+ (O.S.)
Bolted by the Mythical Patrick Edlinger, these are really technical (OLD STYLE), vertical routes composed of slopers, small pockets and small footholds. After I became use to the style of climbing I started to try some routes that I had already tried the previous year, like:
- Magicien de Riga 7c+ (3rd go)
The following day I wanted to try some routes O.S., but unfortunately I could not do it. The routes that I tried are:
- Bleu Blanc Gyrophare 7c + (2nd go). One of the best routes I've ever climbed, start with good holds but quiet physical moves in the roof, just above the roof there is a nice boulder on fingers and then endurance with a move on two fingers pockets in the middle of the routes.
- Correspondence imaginaire 7c + (2nd go). In my opinion a little bit harder than Bleu Blanc Gyrophare but the style is the same.
- Teuchipa 7c (Start in A0). I had a big mistake in the O.S. attempt, because in the Crux of the boulder I took the pockets normally instead of taking it like an undercling. I did it the next attempt.
The day after, my brother wanted to try a 7c in Berlin called Galaxy then after watching him carefully, I decided to try it and I did flash, I was very glad I did it mainly because it is a fantastic routes.
Above: Galaxy 7c Flash.
When I talking with the English guys I knew that the 7c I had done (Teuchipa) became 8a+ if you could also do the boulder in the start, then, since I had already done the 7c decided to try it, in my opinion it could be 7a+ boulder with a dyno in the first move.
When I did it a boulder, I was motivated to try all the routes and after a few minutes of rest I decided to start, I was able to climb the boulder and I had just the 7c routes to climb, when I arrived at the Top I was really happ but in my opinion it isn’t 8a+, more like 8a.
Above: Magicien de Riga 7c+
Another project that I tried last year Sueurs Froides an 8a + in Demi Lune sector, one of the best routes I've tried. I decided to dedicate myself to try it. At the fourth attempt I fell at the last quickdraw... I was really pumped! The day after I was very motivated to try it, I was able to do the boulder in third quickdraw, and I arrived at that point I had already fallen the previous attempt and I was frustrated but the motivation I gave the strength to do it.. and I got to the chain, I was really happy and satisfied. One of my many summer projects had been completed… YEAH!
Also my brother has a lot of fun, he managed to do his first two 7c+: Privilege du Serpent and Sans Peur and Sanglier....Venga!
Now I want to do some boulders and then maybe Rodellar and Ceuse!