Unlike campus training, performing a deadhang requires no dynamic movement. It is an effective training method for increasing your climbing finger strength and stamina.

In this video, Moon Climbing team athlete, David Mason, shares his Deadhang Training tips.

The Exercises

To find your maximum weight, you need to deadhang a 20mm edge with enough weight added to cause you to fail at exactly 12 seconds. This is your maximum training weight. This should only be treated as a baseline though, if it feels too easy you should increase the weight. Finding your max weight may require an entire session. Do not incorporate this part of the process into the actual workout.

Ensure you maintain strict form with the fingers.

Warm up routine 

  • 5-8 seconds with 50% max weight added
  • 1-3 mins rest
  • 5-8 seconds with 75% max weight added
  • 1-3 mins rest
  • 5-8 seconds with 95% max weight added

Take a 3-4 minutes rest.

  • Five sets of 10-second hangs at your predetermined maximum weight with 2-4 minute rests between sets. Adjust the weight to your level so you complete all 5 sets.