I write this Blog having just got back to our Gite in Gap after a great day climbing in Ceuse. I’ve only ever had 1 day at Ceuse and that was way back in 1995. I am now wondering what I have been doing with my life for the past 20 years! Many claim it to be the best sport-climbing cliff in the world and it would be hard to argue with this claim. Bullet hard limestone, stunning location, world class routes in all directions and at least on the routes I climbed today a definite old school feel about them. We headed up to the Berlin sector and warmed up on a technical 6b+ face climb that really reminded me of the Styx wall at Buoux, keeping you on your toes, literally speaking all the way to the belay. Blocage Violence and Changement le Look both 7b+ quickly followed. Does sport-climbing get any better than this? Both uber-classic routes and the latter a gift from the French legend and early Ceuse pioneer Patrick Edlinger. I absolutely love this style of climbing, which requires good technique, strong fingers, a steady head and is no gift at the grade either. Proper old school sport-climbing and an antidote to the over bolted, over graded and bland sport-climbing often found elsewhere in Europe. Roll on tomorrow…
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